SCANNED BY DUANE TROXEL; NOT SPELLCHECKED OR PROOFREAD THIS DOCUMENT IS PROVIDED ONLINE IN THE HOPE THAT A VOLUNTEER WILL PROOFREAD AND FORMAT IT. IF YOU CAN HELP, PLEASE CONSULT THE STYLE SHEET AT bahai-library.com/editors/style.sheet.html AND THEN WRITE TO JONAH WINTERS. THANK YOU, YOUR HELP IS GREATLY NEEDED! [First published London: John Murray, 1856. Baha'i references 175-81, 272-82] THE ~Asf- COLLECTION Advisory Editor John E. Woods Editorial Board William R. Polk Speros Vryonis, Jr. John C. Campbell Mostafa Ansari GLIMPSES OF LIFE AND MANNERS IN PERSIA Lady [Mary] Sheil ARNO PRESS A New York Times Company New York-1973 Reprint Edition 1973 by Arno Press Inc. Reprinted from a copy in The Princeton University Library The Middle East Collection ISBN for complete set: 0-405-05130-X See last pages of this volume for titles. Manufactured in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Sheil, Mary Leonora (Woulfe) Lady. Glimpses of life and manners in Persia. (The Middle East collection) Reprint of the 1856 ed. published by J. Murray, London. 1. Iran-Description and travel. 2. Iran- Social life and customs. I. Title. II. Series. DS258.S54 1973 915.5'04'4 73-6299 ISBN 0-405-05356-8 GLIMPSES OF LIFE AND MANNERS IN PERSIA GLIMPSES OF LIFE AND 31ANNERS 9 PERSIA. By LADY SHEIL. NVITH NOTES ON RUSSIA, KOORDS, TOORKOMANS, NESTORIANS, KHIVA, AND PERSIA. 01itij Illustrations, tONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1856. LONDON'. PRINEED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS , STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. PREFACE. SIR JOHN MALCOLM, Sir John M'Donald, Sir Robert Porter, Mr. Morier, and Mr. Fraser, have nearly Vx- bausted the subject of Persia. The histories, the travels, and the novels of these distinguished writers have made the world acquainted with the literature, the geography, the commerce, and the antiquities of that country. The present volume is simply an attempt to describe -the manners and the tone of feeling and society at the present day. There seemed at one moment a prospect that Persia, would bold, as friend or foe, a prominent position before the English public. This anticipation led first to the production of these pages. Even now the altered aspect of political affairs may not perchance have deprived ther4 of all interest. The Notes attached to this volume are written by my husband. There are in Persia many subjects not ac- cessible to female inquiry; yet the absence of all allusion to them, even in a trifling production like this, would ren- der these pages more incomplete than, it may be feared, they actually are. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Motive for writing this book - Our party - Progress to Berlin - Encounter with the police - Russian railroads - Arrival in Warsaw - General Lamoricibre - Death of the Grand Duke Michael - Etiquette in the Emperor's Park - Theatre at Warsaw - Masourka - Audience with the Emperor Nicholas - Jews in Warsaw Page I CHAPTER -11. Departure from Warsaw - Feldt Yfiger - Russian post-houses - G.ytomir - Kief - St. Sophia - Baptism in the Dnieper - - Suspen- sion-bridge over the Dnieper - Progress to Odessa - Appearance of the people - Jewish Synagogue - Odessa - Prince Woronzow 15 CHAPTER M. Russian steamboat - Our fellow-passengers - Russian resources for passing the time - 0 Mee Mdmoires I - Sebastopol ~ Balsolave, - Crimean' scenery - Yalta - Aloupka - Wine-making in the Crimea - Russian ladies in distress - Tartar bandit - Jews in the Crimea - Simpheiopol - Kaffe, - Kertch - Museum -Pass- age to Taman . CHAPTER IV. Passage to Taman - Russian hospitals - Line of the Kuban - Russian sentinels perched on platforms - Cossacks of the line - Ekaterinodar - Stavropol - Our Armenian hostess - Novel mode of ablution - Giorgesk - Caucasian watering-place - Vladikafkaz, the key of the Caucasus - Curious mode of conversion to Chris tianity among the Onets - Shamil - Across the Caucasus to Tiflis 40 a 3 CONnNTS. CHAPTER V. Tiflis sacked by the Persians - Prince Woronzow's improvements - Georgian drinking parties - Armenian Patriarch - Gookcha Lake - Supper at Erivan, - Etcluniatzin - Nakhshewan - Our host and hostess -- Night at the Am - Crossing the frontier - Fare- well to Russia Page 61 CHAPTER VI. Arrival in Persia - Aspect,of the country - Want of population - Warlike costume - The unfortunate cow - Marand - The Azan _z Our entrance to Tabreez - First impression of a Persian city - Frequent earthquakes - The Ark - KaJar`8 coffee - Climate' of Tabreez - The angel Gabriel's address to Adam in Turkish - Languages in use in Persia CHAPTER VIL Mode of travelling - Village houses - Economical fires - Mephitic springs - Savalandagh - Shrine of a prophet - Toorkomanchaee - Snow drift - Journeys of the couriers - Struggles through the snow - the 11 Leopards Pass Tribe of Shaheesevens migrating - Sagacious donkeys and hideous old women - Sultaneeya and its dome - Ujatoo Khan - Mode of irrigation in Persia - Kasveen - Our hosi - The Old Man of the Mountain - Alamoot - Hunting seat of Fetteh Ali Shah - Innumerable family of that monarch - Hall of Audience - Agha Mahommed Khan KaJjar - Plucking out of 70,000 pairs of eyes - Waiting for good luck - My entry into Tehran - Entry of Colonel Sheil i 6 CHAPTER VIII. 6 . 98 Dulness of the life in Tehran - Gardening - The Persian language - The Moharrem - Dramatic representation - Fighting among the women - Extraordinaxy overflow of grief at the representation - Visit to the Shah's mother and wives - Interior of the haram. - Thin costume . CHAPTER ft, Gebt fire4orshippers ~ Curious made of interment ~ Mission garden taken possession of by the Persian ladies ~ Persian music ~ Musical masons - The anniversary of Omaeo assassination - How celebrated - Difference between Turks and Persians - Persian t6lerance - Debts - Marriage -.Condition of Persian women . 135 CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. Vii Approach of Nowrooz - Dunning derveeshes - Ceremonial of the Xowrooz - Her Majesty's birthday - Entertainment' to Persians - Wines of Sheeraz and Ispahan - Dinner on a large scale - Migration to the hills - Value of water - Our encampment - The mission village - Sanctuary - Miraculous cow - Refugees in the missions - Civil and criminal law Page 151 CHAPTER X-1, Intense heat - Excursion tip the mountains - Frightful torrent - Welcome new moon - Rigorous Mussulman fast - Rebellion - Babeeism. or socialism - Curious incident at the execution of Bfib - A socialist king - Blibee executions - Insurrection at Zenjan 171 CHAPTER XIL Ruins of Rei - Massacre of Russian mission - The camel artillery - Excursion to Verameeft - Extraordinary ruin - Rages - The Salt Desert ~ Wild asses ~ Tome ass" 182 CHAPTER X1U. New. Year's Day - Wool I Wool I - Various kinds of derveeshes, and their ceremonies ~ Freedom of religious opinions ~~ Custom of sending borpses to Kerbells, ~ Disagreeable comparlions - Ali- 1119hism - Visit to the Shah's palace -Conjugal present - The Shah!s sister - The deserted camel 192 CHAPTER XIV. Toorkornan hostages - The banks of the Goorgan - Toorkoman horses - East;6 - Chaldmm bishop - Mistaken ideas of seclusion among Persian women - Dosing of Persian doctors - Ashobrada, - Suc. cessful foray of Toorkomans against the Russians ~ Journey to Ispahan - Dreadful heat - Kouderood - Persian beggar - The unlawful lamb - Persian pigs CONTENTS. CONTENTS. ix CHAPTER XV. ADDITIONAL NOTES. Plain of GilpaZgan - MeloA-fields - Various travellers in Looristan - The manners of the Loors - Derveesh Ali - Khousar - Ispahan - Former splendour and general decay - Shah Abbas's Hall of Note (A~ Page 39. Audience - Persian frescoes - Felicity of the pigeons - The Arme nians of Julfs, I . Page 22q RUSSIAN MILITARY INFLUENCE IN THE EAST. CHAPTER XVI. Mussulman nurses - Three various modes of counting time in Persia - Retribution for the Russian festivities on Easter Sunday at Ashoorada - Partial abolition of the importation of. slaves - Negroes in Persia Condition of slaves in Persia - Return to Tehran - Bastinado Punishment of a general for being defeated . 238 CHAPTER XVII. A night alarm - The new Vezeer - The old Vezeer - His wife - Manner of his execution - Return and m arriage of his widow - Armenian wedding - The Elchees from Arabia, Khiva, and Afghan- istan - Refugee Afghan Khans - Excursion to Demawend - The " Sublime Well" - Defile and Eelyats - Town of Ask - Hot springs - Mountain chiefs - Ill-advised change of residence - Lareejanee women - Lareejanee lady governor- Persian break- fast - Jonas Hanway's account of Mazenderan - Return to the " Sublime Well " CHAPTER XVIII. Return to Goolahek - Attempt to murder the Shah - General flight into town - Fate of the conspirators - Strange punishments - Arrival of the Turkish ambassador - Farewell breakfast with the Grand Vezeer's wife 273 CHAPTER XIX. Quit Tehran-Journey to Tabreez - Lake. of Ooroomeeya - Farewell to Persia - Oppression of the Armenians by the Koords - Our lodgings in Turkish Armenia - Erzeroom - Road and journey from Erzeroom to Trebizond - Pass of Kara Kappan - Jevezlik - Trebizond - Quarantine - Lazes - Constantinople 286 General MacintosWa plan for conducting the siege of Sebastopol - Our share in its fall - Suggestion for making military service com- pulsory - Our next battle-field against Russia : prospects if in Georgia - Inactivity of Shamil and the mountain tribes during the late war - The Russian army in Georgia, its pay and mortality - Caucasian tribes -Power of Russia south of the Caucasus Page301 Note (B). Page 67. THE RUINED CITY OF ANL Ancient history of Armenia - Excursion to, and description of, Ami Account of the fortress of Gumri - Advantage of the war to the Turks - Oppression of Armenians by Mahommedans . . 307 Note (C). Page 101. THE KOORDS AND KOORDISTAN. '41 Eels " - Sheghaghee battalion - Estimation of English officers - Inhospitality - Misconduct and punishment of native officers - Fac- tion fights - Niametees and Hyderees - Mode of fighting - An odd petition - Ardebil : the governor's son - Drunkenness - Shrine of Shah Ismabl - Marble-pits - Maraghs, - A Persian gentle- man - Quail-hawking - The Koords - Koordistan mountains - The Afshars - March in pursuit of plunderers - KoordiBh cavalry -Death of a colonel - Character of Persians - Drinking-bouts-- Anecdotes illustrative of Persian character and manners * 317 Note (D). Page 103. TooiKoxAxg. Treaty of Toorkoman Chaee - Encroachments 6f Russia - Russian If protection Occupation of Ashoorada - Repression of Toorko- man incursions - Russian naval strength in the Caspian 344, CONTENTS. CONTENTS. Xi Note (E). Page 212. NOTE ON THE PERSIAN REVENUE. THE NESTORIAM. Low state of the revenue of Persia - System of the late Shah - Taxes Expenditure - Revenue from the principal provinces - Cultiva. Nestorian khaleefa, or bishop - Church service - Religious opinions tion of land - Causes of the decline of Persia 'Page 386 Preparation of a khaleefa - Their sufferings from the Afshars American mission - French Lazarists - Sectarian disputes - Interference of Russia ~ Question of dbocent Page 348 NOTE ON TRIBES. Tribes and races - Leks and Koords Arabs - Decline of the tribe Note (F). Page 256. system - Enumeration of tribes 393 KHIVA. Journey to Khiva - Moozderan -Setrekha Toorkoman horses - Merve - The desert - Services of crows - The oasis - Uzbek customs - Mode of extorting confession - Night visit to the Khan of Khiva - Statistics - Designs of Russia 358 Note (G). Page 258. AFGHANISTAN. Our conquest and defeat - Practicability of invRsion of India - Necessary precautions -Importance of Candahar as a military position -Russian preparations for another war . . 370 Note (H)~ Page 270. SILK MANUFACTURE OP PFRStA. Importance to Persia of her silk manufacture -'Silk-tmde of Geelan - Importations from England - Province of Geelan - Gipsies . 375 NOTE 01; THE PERSIAN ARMY. Origin of the Persian regular army - English influence ~ Attempted reform - Character of the soldier - The officers - The artill6ty - The infantry -The cavalry I I ILLUSTRATIONS. KURDS CHARGING, WITH KETTLE-DRUMMERS LEADING From4iece. PERSIAN LADY RECEIVING A. EuRoPEAN LADY. PERSIAN LADY IN WALKING COSTUME CAMEL ARTILLERY CARAVAN OF PILGRIMS, WITH CORPSES, GOING TO KERBELLA NASR OOD-DEEN, THE SHAII OF PERSIA PERSIAN WOMFIf SEATED ON A CARPET GOSSIPING OUTSIDE THE DOCTOR'S DOOR to face page 131 it 145 to 185 09 197 P1 203 I GLIMPSES or LIFE AND MANNERS IN PERSIA. CHAPTER 1. Motive for writing this book - Our party - Progress to Berlin - Encounter with the police - Russian railroads - Arrival in Warsaw - General Lamorici6re - Death of the Grand Duke Michael - Etiquette in the Emperor's Park - Theatre at Warsaw - Masourka - Audience with the Emperor Nicholas - Jews in Warsaw. A FEW years ago it fell to my lot to make a journey-to Persia, and to reside there nearly four years. , At this moment, when public attention is so much directed to the East, I have thought my recollections of the scenes I have visited may not be without interest to a few readers. One advantage I enjoyed over many preceding travellers in Persia. I have been able to see the anderoons or barams of the Shah and some of the principal personages of his Court; and to judge, to a certain extent, with my own eyes, of the condition of women in that portion of the East. Circumstances over which we bad * no control forced us to pursue the distant route of Poland and Russia, which, however, was to me rather a matter of rejoicing than otherwise, notwithstanding the fatigue and the prospect of climbing the Caucasus, perhaps in winter, as I knew that in all probability our return to England would be by 13 2 UUR PARTY. CHAP. I. CHAP. I. ENCOUNTER WITH THE POLICE. 3 the more usual road of Turkish Armenia, which sliall be piety and contributions of Catholics for six hundred years, described in its proper place. In this respect I must give and which even yet is only a magnificent skeleton; my meed of praise to Russia, for, bad as may be the land an hour's hurried absence from the railway at Aii-la- of the 11 Moscovs," it is, for a lady-traveller, far to be Chapelle to see the tomb where Charlemagne reposes; preferred to Turkish Armenia. " The Lord deliver- me another night's rest at the dear a ndbad hotel at Magde. from Sir Harry Vane I " might Cromwell exclaim ; but I burg, which all travellers should eschew,-aud behold us say, "The Lord deliver me from Turkish Armenia, its at the sombre city of Berlin. Here we stayed a week to ase subterranean dwellings and their blinding smoke, with ertain the movements of the Russian Court, which bad cows, buffaloes, sheep, goats, asses, horses, fleas, bugs, passed the summer in Warsaw, and was preparing to and other small deer unmentionable, for com anions and return to Russia, wbither it then seemed likely we should 'p comrades I " be obliged to proceed. The time was enlivened by an On the 7th of August, 1849, after avoiding a formal adventure which befell Crab and his master. Passing leave-taking-tbat dreariest and most painful mode of along the most public street one morning, Colonel S- seeking consolation at parting-we commenced our suddenly beard a yell from a voice he well knew, and, journey towards the - land of the sun. We were a cum- turning round, he saw Crab deposited under the arm of brous party, consisting, besides my husband and myself, a stout man, having all the appearance of a workman. of three Irish and one French servant, and last, though Fully convinced that n otbing less than robbery was in- far from least, our inseparable companion and cherished tended, he rushed to the rescue, and seized the thief by friend Crab, who, by his endearing ways, solaced after- the tbroat, shouting with might and main the whole wards many a weary hour, but who, alas I was not extent of his German vocabulary, 11 Der Hund ist mein- destined to revisit his native Scotland. He sleeps deep derffund ist mein!" The thief seemed astonished at the in the waters of Smyrna.* assault, and immediately, in the same manner, grasped A railway journey through Germany offers nothing his assailant ~y the collar, but keeping fast bold of Crab, new. Its tediousness is proverbial; and so special is the and calling loudly for help. In a moment a crowd care of life and the resolution to prevent a catastrophe, assembled and my husband found himself beget from that not even was Crab permitted to travel in our car- all sides. An uproarious brawl followed; some of the riage, which was attached to the train. A night's,rest at townspeople seeming to support the foreigner, and others Cologne; a view of the cathedral, which has occupied the abetting the thief, Colonel S-- all the while gazing round in bewilderment, there being no one in the crowd This was a Scotch terrier of great sagacity and most exemplary who could speak English or French. At length up came fidelity. the police in force and fear, thinking, no doubt, that I B 2 4 ENCOUNTER WITH THE POLICE. CHAP. L 1848 was about to return. They made signals to Colonel S- to accompany them to the police-office, where a person in authority pronounced Crab to have committed a heinous breach of the laws of Prussia in walking about the streets of Berlin without having his name and address labelled to his neck, for which delinquency he was sen- tenced to immediate -execution, unless be saved his life by paying a dollar to the supposed thief, who turned out to be a police-agent in disguise. As for Colonel S--, he was told be was the aggressor, and that be was to consider himself lucky in escaping without further punish-~ ment. The Minister for Foreign Affairs sent him an anoloa,v if it av be so termed, through our Charge' I d'Affaires Mr. Howard, and an expression of regret at what had -happened; but, as my husband said at the time, if he were the guilty man, why should there be an apology? and, if be were not, why was not punisb- ment inflicted on the persons, whoever they were, who had joined in the row, and attacked him for trying to save his dog from a thief? I must own I felt great indig- nation, but be treated the matter. very lightly, saying it was nothing but a street brawl, which might have bap- pened to any one anywhere. At lenutb at the end of August, we gladly continued our journey. At the Polish frontier we passed the night at a miserable inn in the village of Mitlowitz; a night of discomfort, which gave one a foretaste of what we might expect farther on. There was but one small bed, and the servants slept on benches covered with leather, and without blankets; this seeming to be the ordina ry manner of treating servants in Russia, where for them a stove CHAP. 1. RUSSIAN RAILROADS. 5 answers the purpose of bed and blanket. Next morning, at an early hour, we resumed -our seats on the Russian railway. If in Germany this mode of travelling be tedious in comparison with England-the tortoise to the bare-here it was infinitely worse, the tortoise bad be- come a snail. The pace, although a fast train, did not exceed ten or twelve miles an hour, and we stopped every ten minutes to deliver letters, or else to refresh ourselves with vodka-the eternal vodka-wbich name one hears as .often as 11 la goutte " in France, I think I recollect being told that the only fuel used on this railway is wood, which perhaps is one reason why they go so slowly. But let me do justice to a Russian railway. If it is slow, it is safe. No "shocking catastrophe," no " awful collision," no smashing," is heard of in that country. All is calm, de- liberate, and safe, with a complete exemption from the agitation, nervousness, and excitement which the mere sight of a railway produces in England. Chi va piano, va sano; Chi va forte, va alla morte," say the Italians, and the couplet seems to have been written in anticipation of the locomotive character of the respective countries of Russia and England. In another particular, too, does a Russian as well as a German rail- way excel that of England,-I mean the accommodation afforded to second-class travellers. This is _ really so comfortable that few persons, unless the highest and most wealthy, make use of the first-class accommodation ; while in Efigland, with all our boasting of equality, &c., the carriages seem to be contrived with such studious .6 WARSAW-GENERAL LAMORICIERE. CHAP. L discomfort that people of moderate means are forced to undergo inconvenient expenses by travelling in the first- class carriage. Our fellow-travellers were a wounded and rather dis- contented Russian general, two aides-de-camp of the Emperor Nicholas, and one of Marshal Prince Paske- witch, Viceroy of Poland, all. returning from the war in Hungary, which had just terminated. The latter were very agreeable men, with excellent manDers, like, I ain told, Russians in general of their rank. They spoke but little of the war, or of the scenes they had just quitted, and during the time we were in their company, politics and every allusion to public events were carefully avoided ; but music, the court, the opera, and such light subjects they discussed copiously and agreeably. Late in the evening of September Ist, we reached Warsaw, where we were most kindly received by the late excellent General Da Plat, then Consul-General in that city. With great difficulty we found apartments in an execrable Polish inn, the only tolerable hotel being full, and occupied by General Lamoriciere, who -was then Envoy to the Emperor from the President Louis Napo- leon. I had not the good fortune to make the acquaint- ance of this famous commander, whose exile from his native land is so much to be deplored at this moment. My husband, however, saw him more than once, and preserves a Pleasant recollection of a stout little man, full of resolution, energy, and life. I have no agreeable remembrances of my sojourn in Warsaw. We were very uncomfortably lodged, and so ill fed, that every day we were forced to go to a caf6 to CHAP. 1. DEATH OF GRAND DUKE MICHAEL. 7 seek a dinner, and besides I was suffering from a severe cold. Warsaw must always -be an object of melancholy interest from historical associations, and from being the representative of fallen greatness and blighted independ- ence ; but, to the mere cursory traveller, it presents few materials for the indulgence of curiosity, unless it be the interior of society, which my short stay gave me no oppor- tunity of enjoying. Thus much I learned, that between the Pole and the Russian there was a marked line, which allowed of but little or no amalgamation between the two races, and that the Pole shrunk unbendingly from the society of his conquerors. The period of our visit to Warsaw was one of gloom and affliction to the Imperial family. The Grand Duke Michael, the Emperor's brother, towards whom he is said to have borne the ten- derest regard and affection, was stretched on the bed of grievous, illness, which soon was to become the bed of death. His Imperial Highness died at Warsaw during our stay in that city, and this event interrupted, of course, the usual intercourse of society, and deprived me of an opportunity of seeing the Court or any portion of the Imperial family. Nearly every day while the Grand Duke lived, a notice used to be sent to the various foreign officers in Warsaw, that a grand review was to be held in the morning, at which the Emperor invited their attend- ance, and invariably during the night we were awakened by an orderly bearing an announcement that, owing to the condition of the Grand Duke, the review was post- poned. I thus lost the sight of a fine military pageant of 50,000 or 60,000 men, beaded by an Emperor in person. 8 COUNT NESSELRODE. CHAP. 1. It was not among the Imperial household alone, that the angel of death had cast his dart. Mourning and grief had also spread their vei:4 of sorrow over the family of the Emperor's trusty servant Count Nesselrode, whose wife had recently died, and who was living in seclusion with his daughters. It was a disappointment to lose the occasion I might otherwise have enjoyed, of seeing the veteran statesman who has for half a century borne so prominent a share in guiding the destinies of Russia, and materially influencing those of Europe. My husband, who saw the Grand Chancellor of Russia, as I believe be is now styled, more than once, described him to be a man of small stature, slight in figure, with a clever, intellectual countenance, -full of keenness and mobility, which once must have been handsome. His manners are said to be most courteous and cordial. The Chancellor is presumed to be of German descent, like many other members of the Russian diplomatic service, among whom may be cited Count Pablen, Baron Meyendorf, Baron Budberg, Count Medem, Count Alex. Medem, Baron Brunow, General Du Hamel, &c. We often strolled in the pretty park whete the Em- peror was residing, and which was open to the public. Whatever opinion may be entertained of his Majesty's character on various points, be certainly possbssed a fear- less mind. In Moscow and Petersburg one can imagine lie might free himself from the trouble and annoyance of watching over the preservation of his life; but I was not prepared to see him equally unguarded, and heedless, in the very heart of Polish enthusiasm and bate. Few or no guards were visible near the simple edifice which was CHAP. 1. RUSSIAN ETIQUETTE. 9 selected as the abode of the Emperor, who seemed to con- sider the prestige of his fame and dignity an invulnerable panoply-as, in fact, it really appeared to be, no attempt having ever been made in Warsaw against his life. The trees were decorated with coloured lamps in anticipation of a grand fete, destined never to take place, and which was put off from day to day, or rather from night to night, in vain anticipation of a favourable change in the Grand Duke's health. These decorations had a forlorn and sad appearance, I thought. The immediate vicinity -of the Palace was surrounded by a pretty flower-garden, which we wished. to examine, but on entering it we were stopped by the sentry at the gate, who made significant gestures to my husband to remove his hat while walking before the palace, lest by some accident the Emperor might be looking out of the window, and his eyes might fall on somo one with his bead covered 1 The 11 orgueil Bri- tannique " of Colonel S- would not allow him to submit to a ceremonial, which seemed to savour too much of the Imperial " middle kingdom," so be declined com liance and we went another way, not a little surprised at the demand ; but afterwards, while residing at a house of Prince Woronzow's, at Vladi Kafkaz, we were still more surprised to observe the soldiers saluting his house too as they passed before the windows, be being at the time at Odessa; yet such was the etiquette, Amid the general gloom of society, the theatre, during the early part of our residence, fortunately offered us some resource. The scenery and decorations were excel- lent, the acting good and spirited, equal to the theatrical representations one finds in a large proyincial town in B 3 10 THE MASOURKA. CHAP. I. F rance. The audience was numerous and attentive, seeming to enjoy highly the comedy, which generally formedthe subject of the evening's entertainment; but which, being in Polish, was to us a sealed book. It was the Masourka, however, which drew fortli unanimous and most vociferous enthusiasm, particularly from the Russian officers with whom the pit was crowded. Well was this beautiful national dance-truly beautiful as danced at Warsaw-entitled to all their boisterous and passionate applause. The women engaged in the dance were all dressed in the becoming national costume ; and one young lady, remarkable above the others for her beauty, her elegant toilette, and the energy of her performance, which almost rivalled the vigour of a Sevillana stamping the boleras, threw - the house into a perfect tumult of delight. The men too were dressed in the costume of Poland in the day of her independence and military re- nown-perhaps the garb of John Sobieski himself. Each dancer wore the heavy long boots and spurs, and the pon- clerous sabre, without which the Polish noble never ap- peared in public. At every movement of the dance they sharply struck their boots and spurs together, as if beat- ing time-convertiDg the peaceful and graceful masourka of our ball-rooms into a genuine war-dance, in which, with band and foot, they were heartily joined by the Rus- sian officers, who for the moment seemed to forget their hatred of everything Polish. Though both these Sclavonic languages are sprUDg from the same origin, the roughness of the Polish in com- parison with Russian was very striking during the per, formance of the comedy. Russian seems to be the Italian CHAP. 1. AUDIENCE WITH THE, EMPEROR. 11 of the Sclavonic tongues, and is really harmonious to. the ear. But in Polish organs of speech there appears to exist an incomprehensible faculty of enunciating at will any possible number of the most incongruous consonants without the intervention of a vowel. The Russian aide- de-carap told me that even to a Russian, with all his organic flexibilitk, and his power of acquiring languages, the pronunciation of Polish' presented difficulties hardly to be overcome. Tbough I did not enjoy the bonour of presentation to the Emperor, it may be perhaps interesting that I should record here the impressions of my husband when be paid his respects to his Imperial Majesty. After alight- ing at the palace, where only a single sentry was to be seen, be was shown into a room in which were two officers, one of whom was Marshal Paskewitch. He then passed into another chamber, very simply furnished, where he remained, expecting an aide-de~camp to conduct him to the Emperor's presence. Soon- a tall, portly officer, very plainly dressed in uniform, with remarkably small epau- lettes, entered the room ; and -it was only -after some moments that my husband knew be was in the presence of the descendant of Ruric, the mighty autocrat of all the Russias. A shake of the hand, accompanied by a gra- cious smile of welcome, did not contribute to undeceive my husband, who was not prepared for a reception so far removed from state and formality. The Emperor re- mained standing during the audience, which lasted ten minutes ; he was most gracious and affable. He con- descended to express regret that Colonel S- should not have come to his couit at a more favourable moment, 12 EASTERN ORIGIN OF RVSSIANS. CHAP. 1. alluding to his 11 brother," to use his Majesty's own ex- pression, whose condition, be said, was hopeless. The dignity of the Emperor, with the mien of conscious greatness and power accompanying every action and look, made a great impression on my husband, who remarked, however, tbat.in his Majesty's eyes, which were large and protruding, there was an air of restlessness, or even wild- ness, far from agreeable, The spirit as well as the blood of Paul may have been in that majestic frame; for what is unbounded pride but mental aberration ? This audience afforded an opportunity for observing, that even now the Russians have not forgotten their Eastern origin. Colonel S-- being dressed in uniform, General Du Plat insisted on enveloping him in his largest cloak, as he would otherwise have been exposed to the derision of the Russian officers. In other countries sol- diers are as fond as women of displaying their feathers and finery ; but in Russia, an officer, the moment be puts on his uniform, carefully hides himself under an enormous grey coat, which his ancestors must have borrowed from their Mogbul conquerors. This reminds me of an anec- dote I heard in Persia. At the negotiations which fol- lowed the conclusion of one of Persia's disastrous wars with Russia, the plenipotentiary of the latter country thought fit to indulge in a little banter, at the expense of Persian manners, morals, integrity, &c., in comparison with those of Europe. The Persian negotiator at length lost patience, and exclaimed, 11 Why do you talk so much about Europe, as if you- Russians were Europeans? You put on a bat and trousers, and fancy yourselves Feriugbees; but what are you after all, but the de- CHAP. 1. JEWS IN WARSAW. .13 seendants of the refuse of Batou Khan's army and his Mogbuls ? Poland is said to be the paradise of -the Jews ; and, judging by their number, both in Warsaw and on our line of road, even as far as Odessa, the sway of the. Czars appears to possess large attractions in their estimation. Every trade seems to be filled up by them, though they have not acquired a better reputation in their dealings *than they possessed in England in former days. Inn- keeping is one of their favourite employments-perhaps from the opportunity,it affords for retaliating on the Gen- tile some of the numerous wrongs they have so long en- dured from him all over the world. But a brighter time is no doubt approaching for the sons of Israel. If France has been first in rendering justice to that capacity for all the arts and sciences which a distinguished writer claims for that race, we may trust that ere long in our own country the career to lionour and distinction will be un- reservedly laid open to their abilities. In the meantime, however, nothing can exceed the misery of their apparent condition in Poland. They are dressed in rags, dirty in their persons, and their whole appearance is disagreeable, if not revolting. Peter the Great is said to have objected to the residence of the sons of Israel in his dominions, lest, thought that sagacious Czar, they should contaminate -the rectitude of the inhabitants of " Holy Russia " by teaching them chicanery and intrigue. The chief -of the house of Romanoff bad only an indistinct perception of the faculties of his countrymen. We bad some dealings with i a few of this race before our departure from Warsaw , in which we were much defrauded. 14 RUSSIAN COSTUMES. CHAP. L CHAP. 11. OUR FkLDT YAGER. 15 At Warsaw we were regarded as persons going into exile ; and if we had bought all we were advised as in- dispensable, a large fourgon should also have been pro- vided, to hold the beds, bedding, basons, tea-urns, sauce- pans, and various other domestic batteries. We did, however, purchase a stock of provisions to mitigate the famine with which we were threatened on the road. I may remark here, that the foregoing appurtenances are considered necessary by Russian families travelling in their own country. Despotic power is sometimes capricious. The Jewish ladies in Poland have fallen under its influence in a manner which has certainly contributed to improve their appear- ance. Formerly, when a girl was married, the custom was to shave her head completely, and slie wore instead of her own bair, a brown or black silk fillet. By an im- perial ukase the Emperor has ordained, that the Jewish women shall not shave their heads, nor wear these very unbecoming fillets. In the church, on Sunday, I observed some country girls with wreaths of real flowers on their heads, which had not the effect of overcoming their natural plainness. The men wear robes like dreSSiDg-gowns; and I could not help laugbiDg at the curious effect which a man ploughing in a dressing-gown, produced. I afterwards became accustomed to this style of garment, for it is worn all over the East. I CHAPTER IL Departure from7 Warsaw - Feldt YiLgger - Russian post-houses - Gytomir - Kief - St. Sophia - Baptism in the Dnieper - Suspen. sion bridge over the Dnieper - Progress to Odessa - Appearance of the people - Jewish Synagogue - Odessa - Prince Woronzow. IT is time to leave Warsaw, where we have been detained too long, and to commence our tedious journey to Odessa. The extreme kindness of Count Nesselrode bad diminished some of its difficulties by assigning us a non-commissioned officer of the Feldt Yhger (or Government Messenger) de- partment, whose knowledge of languages, however, being confined to German and Russian, we were not only com- pletely in his bands as far as our dealings with the people of the country were concerned, but we were hardly able to communicate our wants and wishes. His presence'cer- tainly relieved us from embarrassment, for in Russia a Feldt Ydger is nearly as powerful at the post-bouses as the Czar himself His proper duty was to drive in advance, furnished with his courierski padrojna, which enabled him to claim horses for us, to the exclusion of all other travellers, even if they bad been harnessed to their carriages, and to prepare horses at the next stage.- He travelled in an exceedingly light uncovered waggon, with- out springs, called a pavoska, drawn by three horses abreast, of which the centre horse invariably trots, while the two others gallop. It is in this manner that the de- 16 OUR FELDT YAGER. CHAP. IL spatches of the Government are rapidly conveyed all over the empire. The Russians will tell you that these couriers often travel at the rate of more than 300 miles a day for ten successive days, which must be one of the exaggera- tions in which Russians occasionally indulge. Be it as it may, these couriers are indefatigable, and so great are the fatigues they endure in these shocking waggons, that few among them live to an advanced time of life ; and moreover, being obliged to travel in all weatbers, niglit and day, fair and foul, many perish in the snow. To them alone is con- ceded the cruel privilege of forcing the horses forward till they drop or die from fatigue. Our Feldt Ydger was not one of these reckless characters. On the contrary, he often retarded our progress by feigning that the stables were empty and DO horses to be bad, in the mean time indulging himself in a sound sleep for some hours, indif- ferent; to our impatience and to the subsequent detection of his falsehood. At other times he would stealthily re- main behind at night, leaving the Russian postilions to crawl along as they pleased, and then join us rapidly next morning. In short, the benefit of his guidance was not without alloy. The tendency to exaggeration alluded to above, as seen in many Russians, may, it seems to me, be traced to cre- dulity as much is to aDyotber source. I remember in Persia a Russian gentleman, of great gravity and holding a high official appointment, who, when expatiating on the sagacity of the wolves in his country, used solemnly to assert, that they were accustomed to swallow a large quantity of earth to make themselves heavy preparatory to seizing a cow by the tail. The weight of the earth CHAP. 11. RUSSIAN POST-HOUSES. 17 added to that of the wolf soon rendered the unsuspecting victim a prey to the calculating marauderi This gentle- man was a nati.ve of Little Russia, where they are said to have a faith that ought to remove the Himalayas them- selves. We occupied five dreary days and nights in reaching Kief, our road lying through immense plains, intermingled with prodi ious forests, and enlivened here and there with 91 large tracts of cultivation, though with a scanty popula- tion, which in some of t9e villages, consisted entirely of Jews. Twice each day we stopped at the wretched post- houses to partake of the fare they afforded, which rarely exceeds tea, eggs, and bread, diversified in Russia with that detestable Muscovite concoction called stebee, which is a broth composed of hot water, tallow, cabbage, and salt. These places never contained beds ; a bare floor, a wooden bench without cushions, a few wooden chairs, were their sole attractions to a traveller. These humble accom- modations were compensated by civility, cordiality, and a cheerful alacrity to remedy every deficiency. Gytomir, half way between Warsaw and Kief, where we arrived September 27th, was to us an oasis in the desert. At this town we found a bustling inn, where we were delighted to recruit ourselves with a dinner of welcome beefsteaks, our single meal for five days, and English porter, for which beverage the Russians entertain even more devotion than our own countrymen. The merits of Meux, Barclay, and Guinness are as shrewdly scanned by them as those of Lafitte and ChAteau. Margaux, in a London diniDg-room. Five days and nights passed in a. carriage, even with the advantage of its being what our Irish servant called a V is KIEF-ST. SOPHIA. CHAP. H. " dormouse," were no small trial, and glad we were, tired and travelworn, to get sight of the 11 Mother of Russian cities," as Kief from its antiquity is styled, situated on a high bank overlooking the Dnieper. Our Feldt Ydger explained our slow progress by invectives against the Polish POStiliODS, Who were, be said, of violent temper, and would not allow themselves to be flogged or abused. " But wait, be continued, until we enter Russia, " and there I can do as I please." Ile certainly kept his promise, both with whip and tongue. We were most kindly received in Kief at the house of Mr. Vignolles, whose hospitality saved us from the vexa- tion and discomforts of a Russian inn, not the least of whose miseries was the incessant conflict to be waged with the bloodthirsty nomadic tribes which abound in Russian dormitories at that season of the year. Fatigue had so overcome my strength, that I was glad to devote to repose, Dearly the whole of the three days we spent at Kief ; and I am ashamed to be obliged to confess to the indolence of not having seen its chief curiosity, the catacombs, where the remains of so many saints of the Russian calendar are laid. This city is to the Russo- Greek Church what Rome is to Catholics, and the Church of St. Sophia (the oldest in Russia, it is said) is the Russian St. Peter's, though mighty is the difference. It is a very picturesque building, or rather collection of buildings, and as rich as abundance of gilding both inside and out can make it. We were deeply gratified by the solemn chanting of the Russian monks, which surpassed, in my opinion, in religious grandeur and effect, the elabo- rate and scientific psalmody of St. Peter's. At Moscow, CHAP. 11. THE GREEK 0HURCH. 19 and above all, St. Petersburg, the church music is de- scribed as magnificent-tbe exclusion of all other than vocal music in the Greek Church having naturally directed all the efforts of the priesthood to excellence in this branch of harmony. The service was said to be in old Sclavonic, which is equally unintelligible to the people at large, as Latin to the majority in the Catholic Church. The same means of translated prayer-books adopted throughout the Catholic world, are probably taken in the Eastern Church to remedy the inconvenience. We were informed that the grand festivals of the Church are celebrated at Petersburg, Moscow, and Kief, with a gorgeousness far surpassing the most imposing solemnities at Rome. The appearance of the priests at Kief was deeply impressive. Their long locks and venerable beards gave them 'an apostolic air, much at variance with our ideas of clerical propriety and smoothness of face, at the present day. Kief is said to have been a great city before the inva- sion of the Moghuls, by whom it was utterly destroyed. It was here, 800 years ago, that Vladimir the Great forced the whole population to embrace Christianity by baptizing them by a simultaneous plunge in the Dnieper. The present town, like -every city in Russia, where land is abundant and population scanty, is spread over a large extent. With the stately Dnieper flowing at its feet, the neighbouring bills, the forest and the steppe in the dis~ tance, the gilded domes of the churches glittering and sparkling on all sides, it scarcely justifies the uncourteous remark of the English Ambassador to Catherine the Second, that the aspect of the city was detestable. The Dnieper seems to be half a mile in width, opposite 20 RUSSIAN BRIDGE. CHAP. H. to the city. Mr. Vignolles was employed in the arduous undertaking of building a splendid bridge over this fine river, by a contract which be bad concluded with the Russian Government. His operations bad converted Kief into a small English colony, from the numerous artisans whom Mr. Vignolles bad brought from England to con- tribute their practical skill to his science. Thig monument of distinguished English talent was not more than half built when we saw it. The great difficulty to be sur- mounted was the increased weight and rapidity of the Dnieper in spring. Mr. Vignolles bad suffered, a heavy loss in the previous season. The melting snow and ice bad filled the Dnieper, which rolled and rushed against the columns of the rising bridge with overwhelming fury, and in a moment 30,0001. were dissipated, and the labour and anxieties of two years scattered to the winds and waves. Mr. Vignolles was full of confidence in his power to baffle all the insurrections of the DDleper, and I hear that he has succeeded in accomplishing his arduous under- taking. Returning from inspecting Mr. Vignolles's curious works, we drove in a carriage over the Russian strange contrivance for connecting the two banks of the Dnieper. This consisted of thick planks floating in the water, Placed closely side by side, like a raft, across the whole breadth of the river, and braced by bands of rope together. At each movement of the wheels and of the horses, these planks sank into the water, sometimes to an alarming depth; but though the passage looked hazardous, it was free from danger. Notwithstanding its size and volume of water at Kief, it is to be lamented that this fine stream should contribute so little to the wants of the daily in- clup. 11. rASS.AGE OF THE CAUOASUS. 21 creasing civilization of the tracts through which it rolls its course. Its cataracts, the shallows at its mouth, its shifting sands, which -change the passage from,year to year, all concur to render its navigation difficult and its commerce comparatively insignificant. At Mr. Vignolles's table, it was more than once a subject of discussion among his intelligent sons and assistants, whether the impediments caused by the cataracts could not be surmounted, among other ways, by a canal conducted from above the falls. When the temple of Janus shall be happily closed, let us hope the sovereign of Russia may find leisure to solve this problem. With the fear of the Caucasus before our eyes, and nervously anxious to anticipate a heavy fall of snow, we hastened to continue our journey. My husband bad frightened me with a description of a passage of these mountains during winter, which be bad performed some years before. The mo untaineers had cut a passage through the snow exactly the breadth of the sledge, with three fiery courier horses abreast. Above, was a wall of snow several hundred feet high, and which the least gust of wind would bring down in an overwhelming avalanche, while on the outside, was a precipice many hundred feet deep, and quite perpendicular, which the sledge partially overhung. To add to his enjoyment of the sublimity,of the scene, my husband bad the satisfaction to find bimself seated on the outer side of the sledge, while the inner seat was occupied by his Aervant. The cold was of such in., tensity that be saw, or thought be saw, the air in motion, dancing and jumping in the- minutest and most brilliant particles, wbieb be said must have been the original iu& i 22. STEPPE OF ODESSA. CHAP. 11. visible atoms from which modern philosophy has framed the universe. in passing by the spot afterwards, and seeing how terrible it was even in fine autumn weather, I rejoiced we bad hurried on, in spite of fatigue, to escape the snow. If in Poland we were struck by a general air of poverty amounting to squalor, in Russia we were surprised to find an appearance of comfort and the enjoyment of at least tbe necessaries of life. Kief contained few or no beggars; all, both in the city and in the country, seemed. to have employrnent~ and to be comfortably clothed and fed. These remarks are applicable to the whole of the Russian dominions, in Europe at least, which came under our observation, and the effect is rendered more striking by the immediate contrast with Poland. From what cause does this difference arise ? It cannot be, owing apparently to the immense superabundance of soil in Russia over the population, for in Poland the inhabitants are not numerous, nor is there a deficiency of land. Soon after leaving Kief we entered on the steppe, wbich we traversed almost up to Odessa. Contrary to my expectation, we fouDd. large tracts of meadow, and even of tillage, though at distant intervals. In fact, in- stead of being a barren plain, as I had been led. to imagine, the steppe may be described as a grassy level, or prairie, highly susceptible of cultivation, and covered with aromatic herbs in early summer. We were four days and nights on this part of our expedition, but the severe experience of the journey from Warsaw had inured us to hardship, and we travelled in comparative ease and comfort, though without encountering any objects of CHAP. 11. ODESSA. 23- interest. During a change of horses at a small town on the Saturday we went into a Jewish synagogue, and were received with great civili~y. The congregation was nu.- merous, the room crowded. beyond endurance, the odour intolerable, and the confusion great; the flock,, both men and women, being intently engaged in the perusal of the Bible, which each person read aloud, perhaps each a different chapter. The heads of the men were covered, though, no doubt, their feet were bare. At Odessa, where we arrived at the end of September, we bad our first specimen of a Russian hotel, of which the less said the. better, unless to exclaim with Dante, 11 Guarda e passa." We however forgave a great deal of what was defective, disagreeable, and indecorous, on finding that our landlord spoke Turkish ' with which my husband was well acquainted. This fortunate circumstance released us at once from the tbraldom of the Feldt Yiiger, from which we had suffered much vexation. Odessa being a modern city, it contains few edifices of historic or traditional note. Like other Russian towns of recent construction, the street$ are wideand regular. The large number of new and ex- cellent houses in preparation showed evident signs of wealth and increasing commerce. We had the pleasure of forming here the acquaintance of Prince Woronzow; the Lieutenant of the Emperor, with nearly absolute authority over the immense tract reaching from the Pruth to the Caspian. He is a man of great wealth, and has ever preserved a reputation for the highest honour. In appearance and manners, he altogether resembles an Englishman of the highest class, and the illusion is completed by the perfection with which his 24 PRINCE WORONZ01W. Highness (for to that elevated title has be attained) speaks the English language. He invited us to pass a day at his beautiful palace at Aloupka, in the Crimea, whither be was to proceed that day, while we were to follow in a Russian war steamer, to sail the ensuing morning with passengers to Sebastopol, Kertcb, &c. We passed the day in strolling through the town and in looking at the well-supplied shops, and closed our ramble by lounging in the pretty promenade overhanging the sea, of which it commands a fine view, as well as of the picturesque rock on which the castle is built. clup. 111. STEAMBOAT PASSENGERS. CHAPTER III. 25 Russian steamboat - Our fellow-passengers - Russian resources for passing the time - I Mes 196moires'- Sebastopol - Balaclave- Crimean scenery - Yalta - Aloupka - Wine-making in the Crimea - Russian ladies in - distress - Tartar bandit - Jews in the Crimea - Simpheropol - Kaffa - Kertch - Museum - Passage to Taman. NEXT morning we embarked in the steamer, which proved to be an excellent boat, having been, we were told, built in England. Her captain was scarcely entitled to command her, as will presently be seen. The company in the saloon was numerous, consisting of princes and princesses, counts and countesses,. colonels, and captains, and fiddlers, and ladies and gentlemen of every degree, and of manners as various as their positions. I was little prepared for the familiarity and good fellowship wbicb$' without loss of time, were established among all parties. It seems strange that in Russia, where there may be said to be only two classes, the noble and the non-noble, the process of amalgamation should be so much more rapid and easy than in England; perhaps the reason may be found in tbe-irnmense difference which is recognised be- tween the two classes, and which enables the Russian noble to condescend to familiarity without risk, just as we see in England a man of rank vouchsafes to be jocular with a peasant, while he shrinks from any approach to familiarity with a man higher in the iscale. Whatever be C 26 RUSSIAN BEAUTY. CHAP. 11L the cause, the fact was fully exemplified on this occasion, and no one could complain that reserve was among the demerits of our lady passengers. The weather was beauti- ful, permitting a large consumption of time in eating and drinking of very good fare in both kinds, diversified with cards and scandal. When these pastimes palled, these frolicsome princes and princesses determined on edifying each other by relating their memoirs. Prince -, a remarkably tall, stout representative of the interminable family of the - (every second prince one meets in Russia being of this genuine Sclavonian stock), took the lead, and gravely produced to an admiring circle of big countrywomen, a large manuscript entitled 'Mes Me- moires.' It was curious to observe that even in convers- ing among themselves, French was the only language spoken by these Russian ladies and gentlemen. Many among the former were handsome- Beauty in Russia seems a good deal dependent on race. Those sprung from purely Sclavonic blood, or from the descendants of Rurik's com-7 panions, differ little in regularity of feature and expres- sion of countenance from the handsbmest races of Europe. But the least tinge of the Tartar taint is as difficult to efface as that of Africa ; the little elongated eye, the spreading nostril, the thick lip, and the unhealthy jaun- diced bue, are sure to be revealed more or less, Among the ladies was the Countess -, a particu- larly handsome woman, strikingly graceful and attractive. She lived at the same inn that we occupied in Odessa, and wrote a most pressing note to my husband, ex- pressing her strong desire to call on him relative to some important business. Be, thinking it would be more polite CEUP, 111. A RUSSIAN COUNTESS. 27 to take the initiative, went to her apartment, - where he was rather surprised to find that this important business consisted of some absurd claim, which her deceased husband possessed some thirty years ago to the Persian order of the Lion and Sun, and which claim she desired to make good, as she beard the decoration bestowed was sometimes of value. It was only after a long delay be succeeded in evading her importunity. Princ6 Woronzow was also threatened by this lady with a visit, and he immediately went to her apartment, as there at all events be bad a fair chance of making his escape. It appeared she was in the habit of travelling in company with a Russian fiddler. On board, the Countess became, in common with the rest of her countrywomen, very familiar with the facetious Prince who bad amused the company with the recital of his adventures. She came up to my busba4d full of smiles and graces, and told him she bad been most fortunate in undertaking the voyage at this juncture, as she had the happiness of meeting with two cousins on board, one being the Prince, and the other 11 ce Monsieur," said she, introducing the fiddler-" il est artiste." We afterwards met him at dinner at Aloupka, but without the Countess. , It would be very rash to infer from this debonair lady's free and easy manners, that she was to be considered as a fair specimen of the Russian ladies. Having touched at Eupatoria, we did not reach Sebas- topol -unfil next day. In the morning a heavy fog severely- tried the nautical skill of our commander, which how- ever was insufficient to prevent our.vessel from running on c 2 29 SEBASTOPOL. CHAP. III. shore, close to where the battle of the Alma must have been fought, but owing to the smoothness of the sea we r-scaped unscathed. Even then we could not look on the fortifications of the harbour of Sebastopol, with their long array of guns, without interest, or without speculating who would be the first enemy they would be called on to repel. The two hours we spent in this memorable for- tress were devoted to rambling through the clean and well-built streets, under the guidance of a Russian naval officer, whom we accidentally met, and who kindly obtained permission from the governor, or the admiral, to be our cicerone in seeing what was deemed curious, and per- baps in not letting us see more than was necessary. He conducted us from one large building to another, and from one immense ship to another-among them, the pride of the Russian navy, the 11 Twelve Apostles." I derived no pleasure from the excursion; indeed I felt heartily tired, though now I congratulate myself on the fortunate chance which led me to a place of imperishable remembrance in the world's records. It was night when we sailed round Cape Chersonese, the southern point of the Crimea, and thus we lost the sight of the beautiful landscapes on the south coast, though we were so close to the shore as to be able to see the entrance to the ever-memorable Balaclava~ It blew bard during the night, raising the sea as well as exciting great commotion amidst our lively princes and princesses. Among the first to suffer was our commander. That bold man of war, who fondly believed himself to bear some likeness to an English naval officer, after struggling CHAP. III. CRIMEAN SCENERY. 29 for a time, lay helpless and prostrate, but sought comfort and encouragement in the remembrance that mighty Nelson himself to the last was liable to the same mishap. A brilliant morning saw us at anchor at a short, distance from the little town of Yalta, with all the lovely scenery of the- southern Crimea in full view. Hills covered with verdure down to the sea, woods, interminable Vine- yards, hamlets, and villas, formed a scene not- easily forgotten, and brought to mind the garden of the world, -Italy, and all its beauties. Well might that excellent traveller, Clarke, call the southern coast of this peninsula a paradise, if all he says be true of the continual streams of limpid water gushing from the mountain side, fertilising the gardens with a perpetual bloom and cooling the heated atmosphere, the soil a hotbed of vegetable productions, no reptiles,, no venomous insects, and, above all, no unwholesome exhala.- tions, of which, in another place, he says the soil is so fruitful at Inkerman, Balaclava, &c. Would that our sick soldiers had been able to find h.ere a respite from the deadly fevers of Sebastopol I change of air or season being the only efficacious cure for the fever of malaria. An aide-de-camp of Prince W`oronzow soon appeared on board to convey us on shore, where no less thhn two pha6tons.and four, if not six, awaited us, and soon trans- ported us, at Russian pace, through the varied landscapes bordering the coast, back to Aloupka, which we had passed during the night. The sight of this gorgeous mansion struck us with surprise. We were aware of the magnificence of Russian nobles, but did not expect to behold a palace which in 30 ALOUPKA. CHAP. III. CR". III. CRIMEAN W*INE. 31 size and splendour can vie with the most lordly dwellings of England. It is constructed in a style half Gothic, half Moorish. The Oriental Hall, as it is designated, is de- voted to the morning reception of the numerous company which is always assembled during the residence of the 11 Lieutenant of the Emperor," and is equally splendid and delightful, overlooking the beautiful gardens and pleasure-grounds reaching to the sea, of which there is a fine prospect. I admired the exquisite taste with which the vases were filled with flowers and fruit, and I was told that the Princess bad her reception-rooms and boudoir decorated every day by a painter with fresh fruit and flowers. It well deserves the proud inscription on the Imperial Palace at Delhi, which we afterwards sent from Tehran in the most elaborate Persian writing, to be affixed over the entrance of this apartment:- Agher ferdows der rooe Zameen as~ Hameen asto, hameen asto, hameen ast." If on earth there Eden be, It is this, it is this, it is this." Our princely entertainer, princely in every sense of the word, and Princess Woronzow, a Polish lady of the noble house of Branitzka, devoted the day to our amusement in showing us all over the estate, an operation of no small fatigue from its extent, and from its being, not bill and dale, but all bill and no dale-like Queen Elizabeth's celebrated portrait, all light and no shadow. Everything was in the highest order and perfection, thanks to the Prince's manager and bailiff, a thoroughly active and in- telligent Englishman, whom we had the pleasure of meet- ing. His librarian, too, was an Englishman. It was, however, his vineyard and winepresses Which the Prince exhibited with exultation, as they are chiefly of his own creation: The Crimea has a debt of gratitude to pay this patriotic nobleman. The vineyards are of immense ex- tent, producing every kind of grape, all introduced by Prince Woronzow. The varieties of the vines, collected from all parts of the world, are not less than two or three hundred. The wine manufactured on the Prince's estate is said to be exceedingly good, though not equalling in flavour its prototypes of Champagne and Bordeaux. The Crimean Barsac, Sauterne, and vin de Grave have a high reputation. The Prince's wine-makers were two gar- rulous Frenchmen, father and son, from the banks of the Garonne. The elder Frenchman announced that next day was his birthday, and insisted on receiving a remem- brance of hisfi6te from the Prince; who at once kindly consented,, remarking, however, that this festival seemed to occur much oftener than once a year. The greatest curiosity shown us was a Tartar village close to the house. The inhabitants, men and women, came out to receive and salute their ruler, who addressed them with much cordiality. The Prince said they were quiet, good people. They were very poor, very dirty, and very ugly.. At night a numerous party assembled at dinner; the guests could not have been less than fifty-a number s . tated to be unusually small. The company was said to be somewhat motley, according to the common practice of Russian noblemen, who are said to- be regardless of the rank of their guests, further than giving to each a higher or lower-placed seat at table, and more or less costly fare, 32 RUSSIAN RESPECT FOR THE ENGLISH. CHAP. Ill. in proportion to his social status. The wines were numerous and excellent, all supplied from the Prince's own estate at Aloupka. A few visitors came later in the evening, among whom was a French gentleman, long established in the country. He spoke warmly in favour of the Russian peasantry, their intelligence, their industry, their knowledge of their rights, and their tenacity in maintaining them. Next morning after breakfast we bade adieu to Aloupka. Fair befall its lovely bowers and radiant balls! May it be safe from the ravages of war, and the presence of the spider and the owl! as I remember having read in my Persian studies- Perdehdaree mee kooned der kasr e k9sar ankeboot, Nowbet mee zaned boom der goombed e Afrasiab." The spider weaves his web in the halls of the Coesars, The owl tolls his knell in the dome of Afrasiab." This being Sunday, we attended church at the house of Prince Narishkin, part of whose fa mily belongs to the Catholic Church, and who maintains in his establishment a clergyman of that religion. Their estate adjoins that of Prince Woronzow, and is almost equally beautiful. We passed here a few agreeable hours in the society of this family and their visitors. Russians, of that class at all events, seem to make it their study to render themselves attractive to foreigners, and I am told they feel greater anxiety to leave a good impression on Eng- lish than on other travellers, not, I conjecture, from any special liking towards us, for that, I, am persuaded, they do not entertain, however much they may esteem and confide in individual character. CHAP. 111. -COMMERCIAL SPIRIT. 33 That they do confide in our honour much more than in that of their own countrymen, I have a strong convic- tion. I remember hearing of a Russian gentleman at Tehran who gave a sum of money to an English officer, to procure some finery for his wife, from India. This gen- tleman being on the point of leaving Tehran, he told the officer to avoid carefully letting his purchases fall into the hands of a Russian, as he should then certainly never see them. Another Russian, wishing to send some specimens of Persian manufacture to his brother in Europe, instead of forwarding them through the Russian -Minister in Constantinople, who was his intimate acquaintance, begged a member of the English Mission to convey them to the English Consul at the latter city, for transmission to their destination. Yet both these men, part cularly the first, were inveterately anti-English. , We saw at this time an odd example of the commercial, money-making spirit of the Russian nobility, who, how- ever, it must be admitted, are equally willing to spend as to gain. The person I allude to was a man of large landed property, teeming with serfs. Not satisfied with this fruit- ful source of wealth, Prince - adopted the wbim. of turning sugar manufacturer, for which purpose he con- structed a large establishment. Finding the profits scanty, the prince abandoned sugar-making, and was busily en- gaged when we saw him, in plans. for founding a manu- factory fbr paper. Nobody seemed to think there was anything unusual in these pursuits. The prince's want of luck, or skill, or wisdom, was all they thought of Surfeited with Russian navigation, and anxious to see sometbiDg more of the Crimea, we determined to travel c 3 34 LADIES IN DISTRESS. CHAP. 111. by land through the interior of the country to Kertcb. One of the advantages of Russian travelling is, that, go where you will, from north to south, from east to west, from Warsaw to Kamschatka, from the Samoides to Persia, post-borses abound. We therefore landed our carriage, though with no small difficulty, Yalta being an open roadstead. All the energy and kindness of Prince Woronzow's English bailiff were required to save the vehicle from being deposited at the bottom of the Black Sea. This being accomplished, it was late when we said adieu to our hosts, the ladies embracing me., and pitying me for going, as they said, to a worse place than Siberia ; in which latter country, they assured me, there were balls and diversions of various kinds among the exiles; whereas in Persia there was nothing of the kind. We then, on the 8th of October, proceeded on our journey, leaving the feldt jHger and servants on board to recreate themselves the remainder of the voyage to Kertch. The absence of the former did not cause us the least inconvenience. Our road lay along the coast to Alushta, through beautiful scenery and a hilly country. At this small town we turned to the north, the road leading over the tedious pass of Chadir-dagb, or Tent Mountain, so called from a fancied resemblance to a tent. It was long after Digbtfall W ben we commenced the ascent, our progress baviD-, been re- tarded in playing the good Samaritan to two Russian ladies travelling post alone to Yalta, whose tears and en- treaties were fruitless in persuading the obdurate yem- sbiks, as the Russian postilions are called, to supply them with horses. They appealed to us piteously for succour, and we sent them on their way rejOiCiDg, after we bad TARTAR BANDIT-IEWS; CHAP. Ill. 35 SOftened the bearts of the yemshiks in the manner. most efficacious in Russia, as well as in other countries' Chadir-dagh proved to be an exceedingly high hill- mountain, indeed, I might cal I I it-but with a tolerably good and perfectly. safe road. Though I forget its height, I remember it to be the Chimborazo and Dewalagiri of the Crimea. At the summit, which we reached at mid- night, we resolved to remain in the carriage at the solitary post-bouse, having before our eyes the fear of a famous robber., who for a long time had set the Czar at deflance. Our only weapon was a single old Russian flint-pistol, kindly offered for our protection by a Russian gentleman whom we accidentally met at the inn at Yalta; but ibis pistol looked more dangerous to fire than to face ; more awful subjectively than objectively; and, as Mr. Grattan said of the 1rish militia,'it seemed formidable only to its friends. This marauder was a Tartar, Who had been a soldier and deserted. Prince Woronzow told us that be once singly encountered and despoiled sixteen Jews. He forced them to lie on the earth, 11 boca a tierra," after the Spanish fashion, and then robbed them at his leisure., recreating himself at intervals with oaths, kicks, and cuffs. The Jews of the Crimea are called Karaites, though why I do not remember.* They reject, it is said, the Talmud and all tradition, C]iDgiDg to the Bible alone. They are infinitely superior to their tribe in Poland, Russia, and Persia, in personal appearance ; and they have the reputation of equally exceeding them in morals and * I have since heard that, like Koran, the word is derived from an Arabic term meaning 11 to read." 36 SIMPHEROPOL-KAFFA. CHAP. III. character. The squalor, dirt, rags, and abject syco- phancy of the Jews of those countries are not found among the Karaites. In the morning we descended the mountain, and arrived in good time at Simpberopol, and were conducted to a small country seat-small, contrasted with Aloupka-be- longing to Prince Woronzow, whose hospitality and kind- ness never slept from the time we entered his dominions, as I may call them, at Odessa, until we left them at the Aras, on the frontier of Persia. We found everything prepared for us,-servants, beds, and a most luxurious breakfast. We would willingly have passed a day at this pleasant retreat, wbich, among other attractions, contained a large library; but the fear of the Caucasus and Kasee Beg * urged us on. We drove through a pleasant, slightly undulating country, sometimes a savannah, but at in- tervals well cultivated and inhabited. In many places we beheld what to my husband was a novelty, as well as to me,-camels drawing waggons heavily laden, and plough- ing the fields. In Arabia, India, Persia, and Turkey, they are used only as beasts of burden; and in Mekran, and among the Beloocbes, for riding, on their distant marauding expeditions. Late at night we arrived at Kaffa, or Theodosia, as the Russians prefer to call it, where we found excellent horses ready for us, and there- fore remained only a few minutes; but long enough, dark as it was, to perceive it was reduced to humble preten- sions. The remains of the palaces constructed by the Genoese when they were lords of Kaffa, suffered destrue- * A high mountain in the Caucasus. CHAP. III. KERTCH. 37 tion at the bands of the Tartars and Turks, for the con- struction of their mosques and'dwellings; and these in their turn are reported to have undergone similar devasta- tion from the Muscovite conquerors ; so that between the invaders little is left to Tbeodosia of its ancient magni- ficence. What a contrast, and what a theme for reflection, does its present state afford, compared to the days when 300,000 Russians were collected in its bazars, and sold as slaves to the merchants of Constantinople ! Continuing our journey over an exceedingly bad road, we next day reached Kerteb, where we found an excellent house awaiting us. This is a cheerful town, and must be thriving ~ as, besides being the quarantine station, vessels whose burden unfits them for the shallow navigation of the Sea of Azow, await here the arrival of their cargoes from Ta ao, urog and the Don. Though exceedingly hot in summer, the cold in winter is of equal intensity, notwith- standing that the position of Kertch is eight degrees lower than that of London. Sledges proceed down the Don to Taganrog, and even over part of the Sea of Azow. Kertcb, it may be surmised, does not possess many objects of- art or curiosity. Whatever may have be&ii the antiquity of the Cimmerian Bosp~horians, little remains to mark their power at this regal seat of Mithridates beyond the nume- rous sepulchral mounds with which the neiglibourbood is crowded. Time and violence have done their work; al- though it is supposed that research among its ruins would bring to light more antiquities than are to be found in any part of the Crimea. A small museum, containing medals, coins, inscriptions, fragments of marbles, and articles of pottery, collected in the neigbbourhood, reputed to be 38 TOMB OF MITHRIDATES. CHAP. III. remnants of the Grecian rule once existing here, and strongly resembling similar specimens from Etruria, is preserved with great reverence. The governor's wife most kindly lent us her carriage to view a large mound, a short distance from Kertch, which our- cicerone vouched to be the tomb of Mithridates, but which I believe was a stretch of his imagination, the so-called sepulchre of that monarch being, I am told, much farther off. The former must be the place which a French writer (Dubois Montreux), a recent author, I believe, with a Gallican contempt for all names not French, calls K3uloba, and which Clarke names Altynobo, intended probably for Altoon-oba, meaning,~ golden tent, or house, in Turkish. The doctor's Turk- ishi however, is not very orthodox, I bear. In the Crimea he meets with a piece of water which he calls 11 Beys can," Bey's water, and expresses his astonishment that the words should be pronounced exactly as in French, and have pre- cisely the same meaning. The mistake is curious, and ought to put travellers on their guard in dealing with new languages. The words are Bey soo; the latter meaning water in Turkish. It contained notting to excite attention, unless the asso- ciation of ideas carrying back the mind to remote anti- quity. An excavation at the foot of the mound revealed a small vaulted chamber, empty, as may be guessed. The surrounding country seemed covered with mounds of the same kind. The Russian coachman drove us over the country in a heavy vehicle, having a large bammerclotb, with a recklessness only equalled in Persia. The chariot- eers of both countries seem to consider a carriage as a piece of artillery. Mountains, rivers, and ravines are no CHAP. III. STRAITS OF TAMAN. 39, impediment to them, as I have found by experience. Like Sir Richard Blackmore, we might say,- Nor Alps, nor Apennines could keep him out, Nor fortified redoubt." On the succeeding day a small steamer was provided to convey us across the Cimmerian Bosphorus, the Straits of Taman, a voyage which occupied two hours. The weather was charming; nevertheless we saw a Russian war- steamer in a plight similar to what befell ours near. Sebastopol. She was lying on her side on a sand-banki (A.) 40 TAMAN. CHAP. IV. CHAPTER IV. Passage to Taman - Russian hospitals - Line of the Kuban - Russian sentinels perched on platforms - Cossacks of the line - Ekaterinodar - Stavropol - Our Armenian hostess - Novel mode of ablution - Giorgesk - Caucasian watering-place - Vladikafkaz, the keep of the Caucasus - Curious mode of conversion to Chris- tianity among the Ossets - Shamil - Across the Caucasus to Tiflis. TAMAN is a miserable place, desolate, dreary, and sad. It consists of a few houses, or rather cottages, on the sbore. The commandant's house alone possessed the dignity of a patch of garden; the rest was steppe or swamp. We wished to proceed without delay, but the commandant's hospitality would not admit of our departure without par- taking of his bread and salt ; and, to say the truth, hunger, with a vision of being dinnerless until we reached Tiflis, looMiDg in the future, made us more ready to comply. The interval before dinner was passed, by my husband in inspecting the military hospitals with our bost. Taman seems to be used chiefly as an establishment for invalid soldiers. Two or three hundred of them from the small posts along the Circassian coast of the Black Sea, were now lying here. My husband said the hospitals were in excellent order. The sick seemed carefully attended to the beds were comfortable ; the men were dressed in good hospital clothing, which, as well as their own persons, was perfectly clean. Russian was the only language known to the Tanianians; nevertheless we could understand, that CHAP. IV. TIEIE KUBAN. 41 the Circassian 'coast was -considered -pestiferous, during summer. Indeed, it is notorious that the Russians perish in that climate, as well as in the swamps and jungles of Imeretia and Mingrelia, in numbers which would seem incredible. The fact of making such a place as Taman a general hospital for the garrison of the coast was alone proof sufficient of the dreadful climate prevailing at the military stations on the shores of the Black Sea. Taman, too, conceals its hidden treasures of antiquities, its tumuli, its fragments of marbles, temples, and so forth ; the rem- nants of a former age of Hellenic greatness and enterprise. Now it is desolate enough; and one can scarcely bring oneself to credit that here was once a great city. In the evening we renewed our journey. We now had approached dangerous ground; it was only in the island of Taman we could, venture to travel by night. Not- withstanding the assurances of Prince Woronzow of perfect safety, I could not approach the haunts of the Cireassians without anxiety.' Their feats of daring in their predatory incursions were well known; and it was besides obvious to the eye in how much awe they were held by the Russians. Our road was along the line of the Kuban, the river separating Russia from Cireassia; for though the Emperor includes the latter country among 11 all the Russias," the frontier is as distinctly traced as that of Persia or China. We never ventured to move without a considerable escort of those showy horsemen the line Cossacks. It is marvellous how little change bas taken place in Ibis country during fifty years. Our journey under the Caucasus was only a repetition 42 COSSACKS. CH&P. IV. of that described by Clarke in his interesting travels ; the same morasses, and jungles, the same clouds of mos- quitos, or rather midges, which could not be excluded from a closed carriage; the same desolation, the same posts of Cossacks at short intervals. It was curious to see the sentinel perched at the summit of a triangle, thirty or forty feet high, with a small platform at the top, gazing intently at the Kuban, and over the extensive plains of grass, swamp, and jungle beyond that river, towards Circassia; surmounted by a beacon to be fired the moment an enemy was distinguishable. So absorbed were the watchers,, that when we passed under their strange roosting-place they hardly deigned to look at us, although for them we must have been a novel spectacle~ This vigilance impressed me with a very uncomfortable sense of danger; or was it a mere display of rigid dis-~ cipline these Cossacks were enacting ? In reading Clarke's narrative of the scene fifty years ago, I fancy him to have been our companion on our journey in 1849. Let the traveller on the Kuban bid adieu to the com- forts, and sometimes to the necessaries, of lifel I scarcely quitted the carriage until we reached Stavropol, the capital of the Russian districts north of the Caucasus. A few Cossack villages might be seen here and there, with some appearance of cultivation; but at the military posts and post-houses the accommodation and fare were of the humblest, or, more truly, the meanest, description. On one occasion, arriving late at a station after a long and bard day's work, we found absolutely nothing to eat, not even bread, or the hitherto unfailing samawar, or kettle-urn, for preparing tea, which is found throughout CUAP. IV.J COSSACKS OF THE LINE. 43 Russia; so we went dinnerless and supperless to bed, not having anticipated or provided for this dearth and famine. Our guards, as I before said, were composed of Cos- sacks of the line, meaning those guarding and stationed on the line of the Kuban. They are, I have heard it conjectured, formed from miscellaneous races: Turkish tribes settled in these tracts, refugees from Cireassia in a large proportion, and colonists from the Tcher- nomorski, or . Black Sea Cossacks, who inhabit the country northwards towards the D on, where begins the territory of the Don Cossacks. They hold a high repu- tation in Russia for the military qualities created by a life of unceasing peril, and for their constant and suc- cessful struggles with their mountain foes. My husband was in admiration of their appearance, thoroughly rough and ready, 11 rugged and dangerous." They are alto- gether irregular troops, each man fighting on his own account. They seem to dress as they best can, though they a6ct-as much as possible the appearance of Cir- cassians in attire, arms, and mode of fighting, so much so as not to be easily distinguishable at a short distance from the mountaineers. A " pulk " of line Cossacks, with their weather-beaten visages, their thick beards, their Circassian caps of black sheepskin, resembling a broad low turban, with a loose crown of yellow or red cloth ; their motley coarse frock-coats with six receptacles for ball-caxtridges on each breast, like the Cirmssians; their yaponchas, a short cloak of goatskin with long hair, moveable round the neck to face the wind and rain from any quarter, present a striking spectacle. These line 44 COSSACKS AND CIRCASSIANS. CffAP. IV. Cossacks are described to be the only Cossacks who will fight the Cireassians on equal terms, or of whom the Cireassians have the least apprehension. I was told it was a point of honour among the Circassians and these rough soldiers that, if two parties or two single horsemen met, and were in doubt if they were friends or foes, a horseman from one side would dash out and gallop in a circle to the right, if a Circassian; on which a horseman from the other party would immediately imitate this evolution, but galloping to the left, if a Cossack, to show he was a foe. An eternal war is waged between the line Cossacks and the CircassiaDS who inhabit the swampy grassy plains between the Kuban and the mountains, so favourable for ambush and surprise. Dr. Clarke seems to think -that the Tchernornorski Cossacks are derived chiefly from Circassian descent, which would account for their martial qualities and superiority over the Don Cossacks; yet how is this descent to be reconciled with the same author's statement of the Tchernomorski being colonists from the Dnieper little more than half a century ago? He is enthusiastic in favour of all Cossacks, Don and Tchernomorski; still I must avow that the specimens of the Don to be seen in Tehran, attached to the Rus- sian mission, are far from exciting an impression in their favour. Instead of the bold troopers of the Kuban, they have been metamorphosed into nondescript soldiers, in a frightful uniform. We plodded our way through swamp and steppe, with the Kuban on our right band, without adventure or variety, until we began to approach Ekaterinodar ~ and then at length the long-wished-for peaks of the Caucasus CHAP. IV. EKATERINODAR. 45 began to show their solitary grandeur, every hour in- creasing in magnificence. The right bank of the river being considerably more elevated than the land on the opposite side, we bad, during our progress, a clear view of the level country to the base of the mountains, wit . h an occasional sigbt of the rapid Kuban, and now and then a Circassian village afar off. Ekaterinodar is the principal settlement of the Tebernomorski Cossacks, and is little more than a large military station, constructed after the fashion of that martial race. It is a collection of cot- tages, with a few better houses interspersed-, belonging to the commandant, his staff, and the officers of the Cossacks. The kindness of Prince Woronzow still pursued) or rather met us. At Ekaterinodar we were received by Count M-, aide-de-camp of the general-in-cbief of Cossack.s, who had been despatched from Stavropol to meet us. We are under great obligations to this young officer, who accompanied us the rest of our journey to the Persian frontier. Ever active, and on the watch to oblige us and facilitate our journey, under his charge we , made rapid progress. His equipage consisted of the springless, roofless pavoska; but in Russia officers, soldiers, and horses, lead a rough life. The p4voska is the vehicle of all ranks of the army. Prince Simon Woronzow, the son of the Emperor's Lieutenant, and a major-general, used often to mount the payoska and travel day and night. Our road to Stavropol was generally level. This remark is applicable to the entire tract in this part of Russia, it being only at the very foot of the Caucasus~ 46 9TAVROPOL. CITAP. IV. that any considerable difference of elevation is percep, tible. On the left hand was the interminable flat steppe, extending far to the cast, north, and wCSt ; and on the right were the grassy plains of Kabarda, or Circassia cis-Caucasus, the country of the race named in their own language Adigh, the word Cherkess, the original of Cir- cassia, being, it seems, either Turkish or Persian. The inhabitants of these plains are, from their accessibility, more or less subject to Russia; but. this vassalage does not, as we have seen, dispense with the most watchful circumspection, nor prevent the wild denizens from carry- ing their forays across the Kuban. At this part of the journey we lost the opportunity, never to be retrieved, of seeing a Circassian family. Knowing my curiosity on the subject, Count M- bad ordered a family of hostages from a friendly tribe, to be prepared at day- light to receive company ; the men arrayed for battle, the women and children in their gayest national costume. At daybreak we proceeded, as we tbought, to their house, some distance off, but after an hour we found we were far on. the big h road to Stavropol, our French servant havinc, judged fit to think and to say we were wholly indifferent to everything sublunary excepting breakfast. Stavropol is the chief town of the Russian Caucasian districts, north of the mountains. Like all Russian towns in this part of the world, the streets are wide, the houses low and painted white.- There was a theatre and an assembly-room, where, I was told, they had balls during winter. We arrived at near midnight, and were lodged in the house of an Armenian merchant. At the door, to our CHAP. IV. SOLEMN RECEPTION. 47 consternation, there appeared something very like an illumination to celebrate our arrival, while several civil authorities, in full dress, presented themselves to ofTer their congratulations. Next followed an officer in uni- form, who, with great solemnity of demeanour and the attitude of the parade, drew forth a paper, from. which he read aloud in Russian. This proved to be a report or 4_~ present state " of the garrison of Stavropol, which this gentleman lost no time in notifying. After apprising us of the number of the sick, absent, and the fortlicomingi they all gravely retired, and left us to a needful and ex- cellent supper, and to repose. This complimentary form of the military report seems to be an ordinary usage. We experienced a repetition of the same ceremony several times afterwards. We were, as I said before, billeted in the house of a wealthy merchant, whose wife next morning came to pay me a visit, with seven fine children, of whom she seemed very proud. . She was gorgeously attired in a light-coloured satin dress, with a profusion of diamonds, pearls, and jewellery. Russian and Armenian being the only languages in which she could communicate, our conversation was limited, but she made up in civility and smiling good-humour for our inability to converse. A short time after the visit was over, I found her, in her ordi- Dary plain dress, wasbiDa her bands and face in a sauce- pan. This saucepan, and a small silverjug in my room, of the size of a cream-ewer, appeared to be the only vessels in the house appropriated to ablution. But, primitive as was the former culinary utensil, my husband met -an instance where it was exceeded i.n simplicity. Many years previously he had been travelling in the Caucasus. 48 A YOUNG MOTHER. CII.&P. IV. Having stopped one night at a post-house, in the morningg on awaking, he found a Russial' (flicer dressing-if dressing it could be called, he having- slept in his clothes, boots and all. Among other feats of legerdemain, or de bouche, he filled his mouth with water, where, as it was cold, he retained it some time, and, after being suffi- ciently heated, he ejected it gradually on his bands, scouring his face at the same time. With all these pecu,;- liarities, it may be doubted if the Russians in general are not at least as attentive to their persons as the EDglisb. The hot bath is the constant resource of the poorest peasant. We dined next day with the Governor, at whose house we met an agreeable party. Seated near me was a pretty little girl of apparently twelve or fourteen, who, to my astonishment, turned out to be the wife of our friend Count M-, and the mother of his son and beir. No one at table seemed to think her youth extra- ordinary, early marriages being, it appeared, as frequent in Russia as in America. We had.left the Kuban before reaching Stavropol, from which time the security of the roads seemed to in- crease. Our escort, after leaving Stavropol, not only dwindled to two or three horsemen, but we even ventured occasionally to travel without protection. The truth was, we bad left the Circassians behind, and had approached the lands of the Tchetebens,-a tribe not less warlike, but whose country was free from the swamps and fast- nesses of Kabarda, and consequently more under the control of the Russians. A few years ago, no traveller was allowed to proceed without an escort, so dangerous CH,kr. IV. CAUCASIAN WATERING-PLACE. 49 was the passage, while the post was accompanied by two pieces of artillery and a company of infantry. Even to this day it is not safe to dispense with all precaution. The next town we arrived at was Giorgesk, a place of 110 importance, unless it be as a military post connecting Stavropol with Vladikafkaz, the hey of the Caucasus. To the right lay the famous watering-place called Besh- Dagh in Turkish and Piategorsk in Russian meanim, in both languages Five Mountains. This is the Baden- Baden of Russia, where the Muscovite loungers or in- valids come from distant quarters, so far even as Moscow, to recruit their purses at the gaming-table, or their health at the numerous springs, which are said to possess medicinal virtues of every variety in no ordinary perfec- tion. Piategorsk, several years ago, suffered the inflic- tion of a foray, and was surprised by the mountaineers; nearly every one, it is said, having been destroyed, including a colony of German missionaries, with their families. At length, still following the steppe, we reacbed Yladi-, kafkaz. The - solemn snow-clad range 'of the Caucasus bad long before displayed itself to our sigbt in all its glory and grandeur. Towering far above all was the monarch mountain of the range, Elboorz, situated in the heart of the independent tribes, and said to be at least 16,000 feet high ;* its summit has, it is supposed, never yet been reacbed. It is strange that in Persia the same name of Elboorz sbould be preserved for the range of 0 18,493 feet, See Mrs. Somerville's Physical Geograp4y. On the authority of Fuss. 1) 50 YLADIKA-FKAZ. CHAP. IV- mountains a few miles to the north of Tehran, which is continued to Khorassan, and even fartber) until at length it reaches the Hindoo Koosh, and, finally, the Himalaya. Vladikafkaz is an important. post~ close to tile Caucasus, of which it commands the entrance by the famous pass of Dariel. From Stavropol to this fortress the same system of fortified posts was maintained that we had seen on the other side of that city, though in fewer numbers, but at 'Vladikafkaz, even to my unpractised eye, it was evident that much greater care and expense bad been bestowed in streD-thening the key of the central Caucasus, and of the Russian communications with Tiflis and the Georgian provinces. It deserves all their solicitude, as, with the exception of the road by Derbend, on the Caspian Sea, Redout Kala and the Black Sea being no long6r Rus- sian, this is the only line for the transmission of troops, munitions of war, or mercbandize, to the trans-Caucasian districts. There are, it is reported, other paths inter- secting the mountains, but being through the midst of hostile tribes, and moreover only available for foot tra- vellers, or at most horsemen, the importance of the main route bas.never been overlooked. The entire road to Tiflis is defended by strong posts and barracks, which contribute largely to preserve the fidelity of the Ossets, through whose territory the road is carried. This tribe has been so thoroughly subdued that no escort is required between Vlddikafkaz and Tiflis, excepting, strangely enough, for the first four miles on leaving the former city, where the mountains really commence. The remainder of the road is considered sufficiently guarded by the pre- sence of the various military posts disposed along its entire CHAP. TV. CHRISTIANITY OF THE OSSETS. 61 length. The Ossets have been subject to Russia since, the time Georgia was annexed to,that empire, more than fifty years ago. A portion of the tribe is said to bave adopted a sort of nominal Christianity; so many indeed have been proselytised, that to use the quaint expression of a Russian writer (Wagner), the converts far exceed the entire population-sometbing like my countryman, who, when his pocket was picked, declared that five out of four of his companions were thieves. It appears that, conversion being attended with certain advantages, the same proselytes bad been repeatedly registered under different appellations. October 19th.-We had been anxious to. leave Vladi- kafkaz at once "Without stopping, but the flesh-pots of Egypt were too alluring to the appetite of Count M-, who perfectly well knew the difference between a supper at a pos.t-station in the mountains of Caucasus, and an elaborate repast at Prince Woronzow's house at Vladi- kafkaz, where be assured us everything was prepared for our reception. A few sly hints thrown in by the Count of the approach of evening and of the risk from prowlers of Shamil's partizans, put an end to speculation, and we adjourned to Prince Woronzow's house, where, as usual, we had every reason to be grateful for his kindness. Strolling about the heights near the town later in the evening, we were shown, far to the north-east, the bills where Shamil was said to be living in defiance of the Em- peror of all the Russias. This information gave us some surprise. Shamil in Persia is regarded as chief of tile Lezgees, a tribe, the fiercest among these mountaineers, who inhabit the tracts towards the Caspian, at the eastem~ D 2 t2 extremity of the Caucasus. Sbamil is, however, an erratic monarch, one day leadiDg a foray against the Russiausq or defending himself from one of their inroads, another carrying fire and sword among the tribes which have, traitorously dared to form a truce with the Muscovites. We saw during our walk a few miserably dressed girls near some tents belongil)" to the Ossets. Next morning we resumed our journey. A_ small escort conducted us to the entrance Of the Pass of Dariel, and there left us, all danger having then ceased. As my pen cannot do justice to the grandeur of theseenes our road led us through, I sball not attempt to describe them, but refer the curious reader to Sir R. Ker Porter's Work, in which the mountain scenery of the Pass of Dariel is most vividly portrayed. After passing the village of Dariel, from which is derived the name of the defile, we spent the night in a lonely post-house, where for the first time I heard t be bowling of jackals. It is a melan- choly wild cry, and, as in Ireland we are accustomed to regard the howling of a dog as a thing Of ill omen, these 0 yells sounded particularly dismal to me. Next day we passed in succession Kazee Bey, the formidable Kazee Bey, Kobl, Kassanoor, Ananoor, Dousbete. We found the road excellent and free from danger, as free at least 0 as a mountain road can be made. Sir R. Ker Porter has indulged in a little exagaerafion in his description of the horrors and perils be experienced in the passage of the defile, though for my part I cannot remember any cause for excitement or apprebension, unless to a very fervid imagination. Even Kazee Bey, said to be 14,000 feet high, was divested of any terror. The carriage was SNAMIL-ACKALS. CHAP. IV- CHAT'. IV. WINGRELIAN C6STUIVIE. 56 3 so heavy that we left'it and ascended to the summit in the pavoska ; the descent was so steep that.we thought it more prudent to walk down. I can imagine that under another aspect, a wall of snow impending above and a scanty breadth of road, my lord judge (Kazee is our old acquaintance Cadi) would be very formidable, and would give a severe trial to the nerves. At the foot* of this mountain we crossed, by a IODg narrow bridge, a rapid turbulent river, which we were told was the Terek, the second stream in importance in the Caucasus. Tb-- southern extremity of the bridge was defended by a small military work, which seemed more iDsignificant than so important a position deserved. At Ananoor we bad the good fortune to make the ae- qiiaintance of a Mingrelian lady, who was married to a person of distinction among the Ossets. -She was sitting at the end of a room, destitute, with the exception of Persian carpets, of all furniture. - She was dressed in thie Georgian costume, which is ver becoming to a young y 0 face, but makes old people look perfectly friplitful. It consists of a cap made of coloured silk, embroidered either- with gold or pearls, made like a boy's cap, and placed on the top of the bead ; the hair bangs down in tresses, and over it is thrown a light tulle veil ; the gown opens in front, showing a thin handkerchief; and over the dress is a short pelisse, made, if possible, of the richest materials., This lady must have been bandsome when young. - She complained of the solitude of her life, as she had no chil, dren ; and, in going away, begged we would leave ber our visitin-cards as a souvenir, Before quitting the Caucasus I may as well tram:criber.. 54 THE CIRCASSIANS. CHAP. IV. a few particulars concerning tbO Circassians, which though I fear may not be in themselves novel, yet certainly come from a novel source, namely, a Turkish slave-dealer, who had given up his profession, and was my husban&s in- structor in Turkish several years ago at Trebizonde. His name.was Hafiz Effendi, and his residence in Cir- cassia amounted to five years. His reason for giving up this branch of commerce was the vigilance of the Russian cruisers, which made it too hazardous to attempt to cross the sea with his living cargo. The ports be frequented were Soojook Tegbameesa and Shiyapsookha, and be fre- quently penetrated fifteen or twenty hours' distance into the interior. TberQ are no towns ; the villages are built alone, the coast, but are not very numerous; the houses are dis- persed through the forest, which is not thick and reaches close to the sea. The population is divided into the following classes- khans, or princes; meerzas, nobles; usdens, gentlemen; ryots, or freemen; and kieulehs, serfs ; besides slaves obtained in war or by purchase. These classes do not intermarry; and, like the castes of India, no man, whatever be his capacity or his deeds, can rise from one class to a higher rank. It is even very rare for one class to buy slaves from another, unless to sell them again. Cireassia, or Adeegba, as the natives style their country, is divided into six large tribes or confederacies, of which the Dames are Natchwo, Natakhwo, Koblee, Sabieb, Gwo, ghwo, 'Sotokh ; but Kabarda, although the inhabitants resemble the Cireassians in language, customs, and man- 0 CHAP. IV. THEIR RELIGION. .55 ners, does not belong to any of these tribes. These six large tribes are subdivided into fraternities, the members of which hold to each other the relations of brother and sister, and therefore cannot intermarry. Serfs are nume . rous, a rich man haViDa often fifty or sixty male serfs. Their condition seems'to be much more analogous with serfdom than slavery. In external ap- pearan,ce there is no difference perceptible between them and other Cireassians. In colour they are the same, as well as in courage and other qualities. Slaves may sit and eat in a mejlis, or society, of the higher classes, and they carry arms. About half the population consists of Soonee Mabom- medans. In general they know very little of their religion, and many care very little about the matter. They are equally indifferent to the religion of their neighbours, and usually are willing to give their daughters in marriage to idolators, who are numerous. These latter appear to believe in God, but they worship trees; at all events, they go through ceremonies under trees. There are some Christians of Greek or Armenian de- scent, but they are almost wholly Cireassianised: their language, dress, customs, are Circassian. They can obtain wives from the idolators; but the Mabommedans would rather give their daughters to the latter, as being real Adeegbas, than to these Christians, who are found chiefly in the interior. Eloping with a young woman, with her own consent, is a common occurrence. Her father can make Do com- plaint, as, if the girl's parents are not slaves, she has the disposal of herself; but he can exact from the lover thL- 56 THE CIRCASSIANIS. CHAP. IV. amount of her value, and the 11 white beards " settle what that value sliall be. The Cireassians are of middling stature, and tolerably stout. Their hair is of all colours, but reddish is the most prevalent. Blue eyes are more common than any other colour. They are not in general very* fair, though soine among them are eminently so; and a good com- plexion is not at all uncommon. They rarely sit cross-legged, or on their beels, prefer- ring to sit like Europeans, on cushions. They eat, as the Turks do, seated at a tray placed on a stool. They never move out without their arms, it being efreminate to appear unprovided with the means of de- fence. Their tempers are excellent; they are not easily roused to anger, and they are quickly pacified. Conver- sation is one of their chief amusements., and they indulge in it freely. The mode in which the trade with Turkey is carried on is this. Trebizonde is the principal port from which the merchants proceed, though they also embark from Sam- soon and Sinope, Constantinople, and occasionally from Eg pt. The trade is generally conducted in partnership. oy One person supplies the capital, and the profits are equally divided between him and the person who under- takes the labour of the voyage to Circassia. The capital, on an average, is about 2501. or 3001. The articles taken to Circassia mostly consist of silk and cotton cloths, cali- coes, ebintzes, cheap shawls, a small quantity of gun- powder, and a great deal of salt; also some-Turkish coloured leather for slippers and bridles. When the boat arrives at a landiDg-place, it is drawn CHAP. IV. THEIR COMMERCE. .15 7 high up on the shore to conceal it from the Russians. The merchants then disembark ' and if, from having made previous voyages, they are already provided with a koniik pRe, they go at once to their abode ; but if not, they in- quire for the best private house, to which they proceed immediately, and are always welcome. The konRk pii_~ is the host. If one were to leave his house for.another, it would be a mortal offence. It is his solemn duty to protect the person and property of his guests, and be is always ready to lose his life in their defence. As this is well known, a traveller once hosted is tolerably safe.. After the merchants have landed, the people assemble from the vicinity to hear the news, and to see the novel- ties from the land of the Ameer ool Noomeneen, the Commander of the Faithful, whom they continue to revere. The goods are taken to the konAk pae's house, and there the people come with their articles of barter, consisting of honey, butter, tallow, hides, fox-skins, slave- girls and boys-the two latter articles of trade being, however, kept in another dwelling-while the boatmen purchase grain in exchange for salt, and take it to Turkey. People come from fifty hours'distance to traffic.. They are keen in dealing, and never make a bargain without abundance of talking. The profits, after all e'-x- 0 penses are paid, amount generally to twenty-five per cent. Those persons who have slaves for the market do not bring them to the merchant's residence. When the latter has seen the slaves, they retire to another house, leaving the transaction to be completed by no less a person than an elcbee, or ambassador, or by a dellal, or broker. D 3 58 THE CIRCASSIANS. CHAP. IV. When a Circassian says he has got slaves to sell, the Turk inquires if they are young, and in case of an affir- mative answer, proceeds to ask how many spans they are. This refers to height. A girl is considered beyond span- niDg when she reaches six spans; she is then technically said to be 11 qarisbden chiqdee," that is, she has passed spanning, and is understood to be twelve years old. Slaves are valued by the number of pieces of silk, chintz, &c,, given in exchange for them. Ualy female slaves are purchased for Constantinople, to fill menial or domestic duties. Old women are sometimes sold in Circassia. They are purchased to act asnurses in Constantinople. An old woman may be worth two or three thousand ghooroosh (171. to 251.) in that city. if among the slaves that have been bought there are aDV full-grown men, they are chained or tied lest they should run away, but women are never tied. The merchants, after the purchase, supply them with new clothes, the goodness and quality of which depend on the value of the slave. The food given to them is the same as that of the merchants themselves, and there is no limit to the quantity. A great many among the female slaves are glad to leave the country; and some young women, not slaves, who are poor and unprotected, especially orpbans, often entreat their relations to sell them. Their hope is that they may be purchased in Constantinople by some wealthy Turk, at the head of whose establishment they may be placed. An orphan-girl, at all events, is certain of not changing for the worse. Sometimes a free man is sold by force. He is stolen CHAP. IV. SLAVE-TRADE. 69 from some distant place, taken down to the coast, and sold. This does not often happen, and is still more rare with regard to women. Occasionally there is a collusive sale. A man procures a friend to sell him; be then takes to flight, and the amount of the purchase is divided between them. Hafiz Effendi says lie does not well know bow the supply of slaves is maintained. The country is populous, criminals are sold, slaves are brought from distant placesr; as before observed, orphans are frequently offered for sale, and some persons are themselves desirous of change, and willing to be sold. These, be supposes, are the prin- cipal sources from which the supply is kept up. A man cannot sell his son or daughter against their own consent ; but it is by no means uncommon for a man to bring his daughter into the market by her own desire. The uD- married girls do nothing whatever excepting needlework, but the married women do all the drudgery. The Circassian girls are not, the Effendi considers, strikingly handsome. They are, however, exceedingly clever and intelligent, readily learning Turkish, music, and dancing. Their intellectual superiority makes them attractive, and they soon acquire influence in a Turkish family. The Georgian women are handsome, but much inferior in mental qualities, and their market value is in consequence less. Prices of course vary at Constantinople according to the vigilance of Russian cruisers, and the incorrupt ibility of Russian agents at Trebizonde, Samsoon, and Sinope. The following is the average price in Circassia 0 60 MILITARY CONCERT. Cmu,. IV. A man of 30 years of age, LIO A woman of 50 years of age, RIO to X30 The foregoing statement is a very condensed account of the Effendi's narrative, which would have been still more extended had not his affairs called him suddenly to Constantinople. In pas~,ing through the Caucasus, Count M- pro- cured us a gratification fully as interesting and agreeable as the dame from Mingrelia. The vocal powers of the Russian soldiery have a wide reputation, combining Dot only sweetness of tone but superior execution. A party of thirty or forty soldiers, whom be bad assembled on the roadside, near one of the military stations we bad just past, improvised a concert, which proved highly agreeable. It bad really a surprising effect to bear these rough un- cultivated men singing with the utmost precision tenor, second tenor, bass, and all preserving a perfect correctness and harmony. It is said that on a march an entire regi- ment of Russian soldiers will sometimes relieve their fatigue by singing in parts one of their national melodies. Cinkp. V. TIFLIS. CHAPTER V. 61 3 Tiflis sacked by the Persian' - Prince Woronzow's improvements - Georgian drinking parties - Armenian Patriarch - Gookcha Lake - Supper at Erivan - Etchmiatzin - Nakhshewan - Our host and hostess - Night at the Aras - Crossing the frontier - Farewell to Russia. TIFLIS is another Vladikafkaz (key) on the southern side of the Caucasus. We were glad to arrive at this capital of the Transcaucasian provinces, which is close to the foot of tile mountains, and situated on both sides of the river Kur. Some sixty years ago it was sacked by the Shah of Persia, Agha Mahommed Khan, the founder of the dynasty of K&jiir, who carried a large portion of the inba- bitants, Georgians and Armenians, into slavery. I saw at Tehran a few of these unhappy captives, who all had been forced to embrace Mabommedanism, and many of whom bad risen to the highest stations ; just as the Circas- sian slaves in Constantinople became pashas, seraskiers, capita;n-pasbas, &c. Tiflis has entirely recovered from this shock. It is now a most thriving, active, and bustling city, and will doubtless, when the day arrives for the de- velopment of free trade in the dominions of the Czarlp become a rich emporium of commerce, situated ag it is midway between the Black Sea and Caspian, and on the high road between Russia, Persia, and Asia Minor. The official part of the town is full of imposing buildings, and the native portion is equally well stored with busy shops, 62 PRINCE WORONZO'VPS IMPROTEMENTS. CHAP. V~ crowded by the motley population. Prince Woronzow's fostering care has not allowed this important part of the territory under his jurisdiction to remain without its share of his patronage. In spite of the pre-occupation of a war not always successful, with the mountaineers, he is said to have planned many valuable institutions, to which are to be added a large and handsomely built theatre for the performance of operas, not completed at the time of our visit, besides a small theatre, for Russian comedies and farces. All these improvements evince his anxiety to promote civilization among the Georgians and Armenians. The Military Governor of Tiflis was an Armenian of Georgia, General BaYbetoff; a man of experience, who bad distinguished himself in the campaigns of Turkey and Persia in former years. It sounded stranae to find an Armenian occupying this high post, but Russia is more cosmopolite than England. A stranger of the gate is readily admitted within the temple; but it will require a change in English ideas before we find a Canadian or Maltese Governor of India, or the Cape of Good Hope. Is this facility the result of enlightenment, or does it proceed from the dearth of native talent ? If I were to form my opinion from the Georgian ladies visible in the street, which, except one evening that we went to the theatre, was the only place I had an oppor- tunity of beholding them, I should be forced to declare that their beauty has obtained a greater reputation than it deserves. They certainly are fair, with high com- plexions, natural or artificial, and regular features, all of which perhaps entitle the owners to the meed of beauty; CHAP. V. THE GEORGIANS. 63 still the entire absence of animation or expression deprives the countenance of attraction. They look well, however, in their pretty dresses while young. The Armeniaus, when out of doors, wrap themselves up in white veils, or rather cloaks, which have a graceful effect. At Tiflis we were lodged, as usual, at the house of an Armenian merchant. He was a man of much reputed wealth. His house was furnished with great richness, and at a cost that may be imagined when it is considered that the whole of the furniture was brought from St. Peters- burg. It was much too expensive to be profaned by use, being exclusively reserved either for compulsory guests, like ourselves, or marriage and other feasts. The part of the habitation occupied by our host and his family was very humble, and far from clean. Next to its conquerors, the Georgians are the master caste of this country. It is said that between the Geor- gians and the Armenians, who are found here in great numbers, there is a wonderful contrast in character and manners. The Georgian is bold, turbulent, reckless, ex- travagant ; the Armenian is. mean, cringing, timid, always intent on gain, and, unlike a Georgian, in keeping what lie gains. The same characteristics mark him in Persia and Turkey, and I am told everywhere else; for, like the gipsy, be is a wanderer on the face of the earth, and is to be found in every part of Asia. He is consequently an abundant and pleasant harvest to all needy pashas, khans, bakims, and minor functionaries of misrule, easily reaped, gathered, and gleaned. It is as unsurpassable topers, as well as for their military qualities, which have always been acknowledged, that the GEORGIAN DRINKING PARTIES. CHAP. V. Georgians have acquired notoriety. At their frequent drinking parties it is said they will pass several days and nights, almost without intermission, in quaffing the produc- tions of the vineyards of Kakheti, a district in the moun- tains east of Tiflis. This wine is by DO means of bad quality; it is of a deep red colour, so deep that One fancies it has been tinged with some dye to produce so intense a hue. They are said to consume incredible quantities of wine on these occasions, and in a fashion that would put to shame the drinking triumphs of Ireland, recorded by Sir Jonah Barrington, in days of old, when intoxi- cation was the standard of spirit. The drinkiDg-vessel is a cow's horn, of considerable length, and the point of honour is to drain it ata draught. Thebretbrenandcon- vivial rivals of the Georgians in the neighbouring pro- vinces of Imeretia and Mingrelia, instead of a born, use a delicately- bollowed globe of walnut tree, with a long narrow tube at the orifice. It holds fully a pint, and like its companion, the born, the contents are consumed at a single gulp. How these globes are bollowed is as great a marvel as the construction of the ingenious Chinese puzzle of ball within ball. During our short stay at Tiflis we paid a visit to Narses, tbe venerable patriarch of the Armenian Church. His manners and appearance were full of dignity and benevo- lence-an observation seldom applicable to the clergy of the Armenian Church in Persia. NotwitbstandiDg his extreme age, be conversed with great cheerfulness and even vivacity, showing much interest in and some knowledge of the affairs of Europe. Not suspecting we were Catholics, he amused himself and us too, lie no doubt thought, by CHAP. V. THE ARMENIAN PATRIARCH. 65 sneering at the Pope, descanting with great unction on the supposed infallibility of His Holiness.. Having no incli- nation to enter on polemics, and unwilling to put the Patriarch out of countenance by explaining the real state of the case, we allowed him to ~pursue the pleasant theme without restraint to the top of his bent. There was an appearance of great simplicity throughout the establish- Went of the Patriarch, indicating, if Dot poverty, the entire absence of any approach to superabundant revenue, For some unexplained reason he had been compelled by the Russian authorities to quit his see at Etchmiatzin, the Rome of the Armenians, and fix his residence in Tiflis, from whence I have since beard lie has been trans- ferred to St. Petersburg. The Patriarch is said to enjoy the highest popularity among his flock, and -it is added that his talents, virtue, and learning, entitle him to all their veneration., If what we heard was true of the state of learning among the Armenian divines in general, this Patriarch must be a black swan among the prelacy and priesthood of that faitb. Still it would be unjust to exact from them any great profundity of learning, sunk as they are in the lethargy and indolence of Persia, Turkey, and Russia. Their morals are reported not to be constructed according to the rules of a high or very rigid code ; and of their theological depth I remember to have beard some amusing anecdotes. The following is one among the number :-A priest was asked why Christ suffered on the cross ? lie reflected s6me time, and replied, 11 Wall4b, I do not know ; doubtless be committed some crime for which be was puDisbed." Another anecdote is told of a priest in Hamadan, whose daughter was married to an Arme- 66 G00KC11A LAKE. CHAP. V. nian who went to India on business which detained him some time. During his absence the bishop heard that the priest bad married his daughter to another man. On demanding an explanation of this unapostolic alliance, the diocesan received an indignant reply from the priest that be had mistaken his character, for he was incapable of aiding or abetting the sin of bigamy, and that all he had done was to pronounce a blessing for their living happily together until her husband should return. Impatient to conclude our peregrination and reach our destination, we lost no time in resuming our journey. Travelling in Georgia is neither luxurious nor commo- dious, still it immensely surpasses all our experience of Southern Russia, particularly in the Mahommedan portion of the province. If horses were scarce at the post-houses, chickens and lambs, yogbourt and kynizilt, those savoury preparations from milk so cherished all over Asia, were abundant. The invasive hordes of the post-bouses, too, we beard, were less numerous, ferocious, and bloodthirsty, but we pressed on without stop or stay through a pretty country with groves of oak-trees scattered about, which afforded food for enormous droves of swine, in whose flesh the Georgians take special delight. When we arrived at the high mountains near the lake Gookeba, we left our carriage and walked up the pass. On reaching the summit of this high range, which forms the limit of Georgia proper, we had a noble prospect. On the left, at our feet, lay the beautiful lake of Sev&n, the first sheet of water we bad seen on this journey; before us were spread Armenia and the plains of Erivan, expanding far to the south ; while on the right, dark, towering, and CITAP. V. ERIVAN. 67 frowning, lay the Karadagh, the Black Mountains,- beyond Kars, stretebiDg towards the Black Sea. At this interesting spot the postmaster bad hospitably re- solved not to confine our gratification to the pleasure of sight, and had prepared for us a most notable breakfast; at which we revelled on strawberry jam, made fresh from the fruit on the mountains, and the far-famed salmon trout, just out of the lake. Long after dark,- at the con- clusion of a toilsome journey over a detestable road, we reached Erivan. This was formerly the frontier town of Persia, from which kingdom it was conquered twenty- five years ago, after a vigorous resistance, during which the Russians were more than once repulsed, and were obliged to raise the siege. The loss was severe to Persia; as, instead of a strongly fortified town in the possession of the Shah, a narrow river now marks the frontier of the two countries. The strength of this fortress has been increased, it is said, to an extent that would render its capture exceedingly difficult, 'or perhaps impracticable, by a Turkish or Persian army. Not satisfied with the strength thus added to the frontier by the possession of this important post, the Russian Government has sought for farther security by constructing a fortress, or entrenched camp, at a spot named Gumri, a short distance to the north- west of Erivan. Gumri possesses farther interest to a traveller from its vicinity to some remarkable rUiDS SitU- ated within the Turkish frontier, named Ani, which it seems was once the capital of an Armenian kingdom (B.), for even the Armenians once had a kingdom. We ordered horses to be prepared without delay, resolving to make no 68 MOUNT ARARAT. CHAP. V. stay. While we were engaged in eating out dinner of cold potatoes in the more than ordinarily desolate post- house, we were surprised and somewhat put to confusion, travel-worn as we were, by a visit from the Governor in full uniform, who announced that most comfortable quarters and an excellent supper were awaiting us in the fort. Long-continued travelling makes one, I think irritable and anxious to get forward; otherwise I know not what demon of perversity took possession of us to instigate us, in spite of our meagre fare, without pros- pect of improvement until next day, to refuse the hos- pitable offer. The worthy Count M--, ever studious of our comfort, did not disguise his vexation, and told us we should repent the rejection of the manna in the wilderness ' His prophecy proved true, for at mid- night our steeds declined farther work ; so there we lay several hours on the road-side while they were refreshed at a neighbouring hamlet. In the morning we beheld the rising sun in great glory gilding the white peak of Aghree Dagb, as the Turks and Persians call Mount Ararat; and then the whole mountain, towering and glittering aloft in its mantle of snow. The country hereabout being flat, and Ararat not being many miles distant, we bebeld the mountain in all its solitary grandeur. Still it is not wholly solitary, for near it is a smaller mountain called Little Ararat, but the difference of height between it and its stupendous companion prevents any rivalry with the resting-place of the Ark. The traditions of the Ar- meDians, who pretend that whoever surmounts the diffi- culty of the ascent will be rewarded with a sight of a i CHAP. V. NAKHMIEWAN. 69 fragment of the veritable Ark, has been refuted by some Russian travellers, who within late years have claimed the lionour of being the first to scan the summit of hoary Ararat. Previously to our detention during the night, we had passed Etcbmiatzin, the principal see of the Armenian church, and residence of the Patriarch, from whence are despatched bishops-Russian bishops, in truth-not only to Persia, but to India, English India. In the latter empire they are doubtless innocuous, for their report to St. Petersburg can only be confirmatory of daily increasing wealth and prosperity; but in Persia it may be otherwise. The loss I suffered in not seeing this famous monastery, I was told, was merely one of fancy and association, as Etebmiatzin, or Utcli Kilisiya, meaning Three Churches, as it is termed by the. Turks and Persians, consists of nothing but three very plain monastic buildings or churches, situated in the midst of barren plains. It is to the Armenians an object of profound veneration from baying been, as they relate, the seat of their first patriarch a-ad patron, St. Gregory. Continuing our journey through a level plain we reached the venerable, but decayed, city of Nakbshewau, which, according to Armenian tradition, bad no less a founder than Noah himself. The tomb of the great patriarch is placed in Nakhshewan by these Christians of strong faith, who, I am told, even pretend to show his grave. His city is in a state of extreme dilapidation ; the poorest bazars, scantily furnished with the humblest mer- ebandise, and a small population of Armenians, being all that remains to mark a site which teemedw'ith inhabitants 70 RUSSIAN SOUP. CHAP. V. and wealth. The neat houses of the Russian authorities are a relief among the all-pervading decay which meets the eye. We lodged in the house of the Governor, as the captain of a few soldiers stationed here was styl~d. Our entertainer was most hospitable, and as this was the only opportunity for seeing anything of the interior of Rus- sian life in a middle class, I must avail myself of it to de- clare that the impression it left was eminently favourable. The house of our host was good, but plain, substantial, and clean. We lived with him and his family, who ful- filled the ideas of the domesticity we are so prone to boast of as exclusively English. The table was good and per- fectly in keeping with the rest of the establishment; still I hope I shall be pardoned a slight breach of the reserve enjoined by the laws of hospitality if I remark a gastro- nomic exploit which excited our amusement as well as our astonishment at the powers it revealed. Our hostess helped herself to a large bowl of soup, fattened in the propor- tions that Russians love, into which she poured half a bottle of the favourite beverage, London stout, adding eggs and sugar;_ after duly amalgamating which ingredients, she gave a plate of the fearful mixture to her only child, a pretty, delicate-looking, little girl, who seemed highly- delighted and refreshed with the compound. The Governor and his wife must have been heartily tired of us. They were both genuine Muscovites, not speaking a syllable of any language but their own, and con- sequently we were unable